RHEOLOGY MODIFIERS 57
various use levels, from 1 to 15%, to demonstrate the impact of polymer performance on each oil type (Figure 3). This broad use range further highlights polymer versatility in applications. The polymer was processed in each oil type/
combination as outlined in the previous section. After 24 hours at 25°C, each sample was measured for viscosity and photographed to showcase clarity (Figure 4).
Suspension properties One of the main attributes of the polymer is its ability to suspend. Suspension is an important quality in formulating, as it can deliver long- term stability in traditional emulsion systems by providing the yield value required to stabilize oil or solid particles through the continuous phase of the formulation. In waterless systems, suspension is essential for stabilizing encapsulated actives and any visual enhancements used in the formula. To highlight the suspension capabilities of
the polymer, a gel was prepared with high- density beads. Three different oils were used in the evaluation: a triglyceride, sunflower oil and a silicone/ester blend, showing the polymer’s versatility in different oil systems. All samples were aged one month at 50°C to highlight the efficiency of the polymer’s stabilizing network (Figure 5). To further highlight suspension capabilities of
the polymer, Tan (Delta) measurements were taken of polymer gels with TA Discovery HR-2 Rheometer (Figure 6). Tan (Delta) is the ratio of viscous portion (liquid-like) to elastic portion (solid-like). If Tan (Delta) is lower than 1, the polymer has high viscosity and has suspension capabilities to stabilize beads, mica, and other pigments.
Sun care The polymer properties make it an ideal solution for sun care applications. As previously mentioned, it can generate a wide range of viscosities based on the use level. This will allow for different product forms from flowable gels to sun sticks with exceptional clarity. In terms of providing functional value to
sun products, this polymer is compatible with different sun care UV filters such as zinc oxide, an inorganic UV filter, and octocrylene and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, two globally approved organic UV filters. Figure 7 shows the polymer’s compatibility with these commonly used UV filters. In addition, the polymer film forming ability along with
1
0.9 0.8 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1 0
20 30 40 50 Temperature (°C) Figure 6: Rheogram showing suspension capabilities of the polymer
its oil thickening mechanism can improve the performance of an everyday sunscreen product. Film forming is an essential part of any sunscreen in that a water-proof barrier is necessary for long-term wear and protection from sun exposure. Additionally, polymer oil thickening behaviour can increase the film thickness of the formula when applied to the skin, obtaining a more substantive application during use.
Makeup The polymer can be used to formulate fluid and solid makeup formats, providing and enhancing structural stability, as well as multiple additional performance benefits.
Pigment compatibility - TiO2 , black iron oxide,
mica and Red 6 Lake Compatibility was evaluated by dispersing the polymer at 3% in Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and incorporating 10% of various pigments: uncoated
titanium dioxide, uncoated black iron oxide, mica, and Red 6 Lake. Excellent compatibility and suspension were observed for all formulations (Figure 8), indicating that the polymer can be easily combined with a wide range of pigments.
Texture versatility The polymer’s impact on the texture and rheology of makeup systems was also assessed. In liquid systems, including liquid lipsticks, when incorporating the polymer at 3% alongside 2% sunflower wax, a viscosity of 255,000 mPa·s can be reached and maintained for 4 weeks at 50°C, showing less than 20% reduction overtime. In solid systems such as lipsticks, when used
at 5% with 15% waxes, the polymer contributes to strengthening the structure.
Pay off and diffusion control Continuing the assessment of the polymer’s performance in solid formulations, payoff and
60 70 80
■ Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride ■ 80% wt Mineral Oil +20%
wt Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride ■ Sunflower Oil ■ 50% wt Caprylyl Methicone + 50%wt C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate”
Figure 7: Compatibility of polymer with UV filters. Left to right: zinc oxide, octocrylene and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Figure 8: Pigment compatibility at 10% in Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. From left to right: uncoated black iron oxide, uncoated titanium dioxide, mica, Red 6 Lake
May 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
Tan (delta) ∆
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