ANTI-IRRITATION 77 A
Comparison of extraction efficacy of rambutan peel extract according to various extraction methods
100 80 60 40 20 0
Propanediol Water 50% ErOH NADES B
200 160 120 80 40 0
Control
500 400 300 200 100 0
Control Figure 2: Extraction efficacy and activity of NADES method
extraction method. The study also evaluated whether the rambutan peel extract could effectively suppress skin irritation and erythema induced by retinol and other irritants. In particular, the study aimed to assess the
extract’s ability to inhibit the inflammatory cascade triggered by TRPV1 activation and to clinically evaluate its potential as a cosmetic ingredient by testing its effect on erythema and skin barrier in irritation-induced skin.
Optimization of NADES extraction method To efficiently and sustainably extract ellagitannins with irritation-relieving efficacy from rambutan peel, the NADES extraction method was established. By adjusting the types and ratios of hydrogen bond donors (HBD) and acceptors (HBA) in NADES, the optimal extraction conditions were determined. As a result, the NADES method using betaine and propanediol as main components enabled
Not application
Placebo O/W emulsion
O/W emulsion
(With 2% Rambutan peel extract)
Before 12
Irritation 1% Retinol
8
Treat (3 days)
Treat (14 days)
32 28 24 20 16 12 8
After UV treatment * p<0.05 vs. After retinol treatment
* *
* *
-15% * *
* * -18% 3 Day 14 Day
effective extraction of ellagitannins from rambutan peel. Response Surface Methodology (RSM) analysis was then used to optimize extraction time, water content, and temperature for maximum efficiency. The rambutan peel extract obtained by
this optimized method contained a higher concentration of ellagitannins than extracts obtained by ethanol or hot water extraction under the same conditions (Figure 2A). Furthermore, the NADES extract showed
superior anti-inflammatory efficacy against LPS and UV-induced inflammation compared to ethanol extraction (Figure 2B).
Stability The stability of the four ellagitannins (geraniin, corilagin, ellagic acid, gallic acid) in the NADES- extracted rambutan peel extract was evaluated by HPLC after storage for six months at various temperatures. Over 80% of ellagitannin content was retained at -20°C, 2–8°C, and 25°C for six months.
Not application ■ Placebo ■ 16
O/W emulsion with Rambutan peel extract ■ * p<0.05 vs. After retinol treatment
Additionally, precipitation, phase separation,
pH, and total polyphenol content were monitored for three months under light, -20°C, 2–8°C, 25°C, and 50°C. The extract remained stable without precipitation, phase separation, pH changes, or polyphenol loss.
Anti-inflammatory and irritation- soothing effects against retinol To evaluate the irritation-soothing effect against retinol, keratinocytes were treated with retinoic acid, and the expression of MCP-1 and TNF-α was measured. Treatment with 1% rambutan peel extract inhibited MCP-1 and TNF-α expression by 53% and 32%, respectively. TNF-α-induced IL-8 expression, a subsequent inflammatory response, was also inhibited by 83%, confirming that the extract suppressed all three retinol-induced inflammatory responses. A clinical study was conducted to evaluate
the anti-inflammatory effects to the human skin. Twenty female subjects aged 23–56 received a 24-hour occlusive patch of 1% retinol on the inner forearm to induce irritation, followed by twice- daily application of an o/w emulsion containing 2% rambutan peel extract. Skin erythema and TEWL were measured
on days 3 and 14. Untreated and placebo (o/w emulsion without rambutan peel extract) groups were used as controls. The rambutan peel extract- containing group showed significant improvement in both erythema and TEWL at days 3 and 14. On day 14, compared to placebo, erythema was reduced by 18% and TEWL by 25%, confirming the irritation-soothing effect of the rambutan peel extract (Figure 3).
* *
*
After Retinol treatment
* * -12% 3 Day Figure 3: Soothing effect of rambutan peel extract against retinol-induced irritation
www.personalcaremagazine.com * * -25% 14 Day
Anti-inflammatory effects against various irritants The anti-inflammatory efficacy of rambutan peel extract against various irritants was evaluated to confirm its benefits for sensitive skin. The irritants included cutaneous factors (LPS, TNF-α), environmental factors (UV), and lifestyle factors (SLS).
LPS increased TNF-α and IL-8 via NF-κB May 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE UV LPS
Comparison of anti-inflammatory efficacy of Rambutan peel extract using NADES method and 50% ERtOH extraction
50% EtOH NADES
Rambutan peel extract
50% EtOH NADES
Rambutan peel extract
200 160 120 80 40 0
Control UV
200 160 120 80 40 0
Control LPS
50% EtOH
NADES
Rambutan peel extract
50% EtOH
NADES
Rambutan peel extract
Relative extraction efficacy (%)
TEWL (g/m2
h)
Skin redness (a* value)
TNF-1α mRNA level (%)
TNF-1α mRNA level (%)
IL-1α mRNA level (%)
IL-1α mRNA level (%)
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