HAIR CARE 87


Five-in-one benefits for hair care formulations


Ashraf Hossain, Wen Ni Tan, Shechinah Dunmore and Kelly Mei - Ingredion Incorporated


Today’s hair care market is dominated by products from shampoos to conditioners and styling products for daily use with multiple functionalities. Based on a beauty and personal care survey conducted by Innova, consumers are willing to invest in effective hair care solutions and 60% of consumers globally prefer one product over multiple products and steps when it comes to hair care.


Five highly praised functions in hair care are


moisturizing/hydrating, repair and strengthening, anti-frizz, softening and shine.1 High-performance hair care involving the


five functions mentioned above has generally been associated with synthetic conditioning polymers. However, today’s climate has opened the door for more natural, functional ingredients, leaving formulators questioning: Can plant-based ingredients achieve the performance of traditional conditioning polymers? The origin of conditioning shampoos can be


traced to the balsam shampoos of the 1960s followed by the introduction of polyquaternium-10 in the 1970s.2 Conditioning agents cannot enhance repair,


but can temporarily increase the cosmetic value and function of the hair shaft by mitigating the hair damage through improving sheen, decreasing brittleness, decreasing porosity and increasing strength.3 FARMAL™ MS 6822 = hereafter referred to as


TABLE 1: SULFATE-FREE SHAMPOO FORMULATION Seq#


Conventional stabilization Technologies 1 Water (Aqua)


2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9


10 11


12


Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate Glycol Stearate


Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Sorbitol and Glycerin


Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine and Glyceryl Laurate Disodium EDTA


Cocos Nucifera Oil Biotin


Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid and Benzyl Alcohol Fragrance


Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate (SHSP) is suitable for rinse-off hair care formulations, makes combing easier, improves tensile strength and creates smoother hair with high shine. In addition to SHSP being suitable for rinse-off


hair care formulation, it has also been evaluated in rinse-off, soap-based facial cleanser application. Innova Market insights places facial cleanser in the facial/neck cleanser subcategory underneath


W/O SHSP W/SHSP 69.70


12.00 1.50


0.50 5.00 9.00 0.10 1.00 0.10 0.80 0.30


64.70 5.00 12.00 1.50


0.50 5.00 9.00 0.10 1.00 0.10 0.80 0.30


Procedure: 1. In main tank add water and add Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate. Mix until homogenous while heating to 75- 80°C. Once temperature is reached continue heating and mixing for 15 minutes. 2. Add Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate and Glycol Stearate one by one, mixing gently for 15 minutes at 75-80°C. 3. Cool to 65°C then add pre-mix of: Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Sorbitol and Glycerin. After adding and ensuring complete hydration, add Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine and Glyceryl Laurate blend, Disodium EDTA and Cocos Nucifera Oil. 4. Cool down to 45°C then add Biotin, Blend of Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid and Benzyl Alcohol and Fragrance. Adjust the pH if necessary to 5-6.5. Product Properties: Appearance: White to off-white cleanser. pH: 5 – 6.5. Viscosity (RVT C/0.5 rpm): 100,000 – 200,000 cps


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skin care where it accounted for 73% of new skin care launches between January to June 2024. Among the new skin care launches, Asia Pacific


was the leading region for facial/neck cleansers, some of which may be soap based and mainly composed of fats, oils or fatty acids. However, what are consumers looking for


in a facial or neck cleanser? 64% of consumers globally prioritize functionality (e.g. moisturizing/ hydration, brightening/ illuminating, anti-ageing) when buying facial skin care and moisturizing and hydrating was the top claim from January to June 2024. Our plant-based conditioning ingredient is


built on a novel, biodegradable polymer, helping formulators achieve both sensory, hydration, conditioning and foam enhancement in hair care and skin care formulations.4


Sulfate-free shampoo formulation To analyze the functionality of SHSP in a rinse-off hair care application, a sulfate-free shampoo formula was created and sent to a third-party research firm to evaluate ease of wet and dry combing, hair tensile mechanical properties, hair friction and glossiness.


Ease of wet and dry combing Consumers are asking for sulfate-free and silicone-free cleansing systems that offer superior performance when placed against silicone-


May 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE


Photo Credit: Alexey Donenko/Adobe Stock


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