52 SKIN HYDRATION Aquaporin 3 Expression of AQP3 in keratinocytes after 24h
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
Control
Cistanthe grandiflora stem cell extract 1%
Figure 3: Expression of AQP3 in keratinocytes after 24 hours
biodiversity and avoiding ecosystem exploitation. This approach enables the reproduction of the plant’s biological potential under controlled conditions, generating a sustainable and highly standardized plant biomass. Unlike conventional agriculture, cell culture
does not depend on seasonal factors or large cultivation areas and significantly reduces water consumption and pesticide use. Moreover, it allows for continuous, controlled, and reproducible production of specific metabolites, ensuring the quality and efficacy of the active ingredient. The production process of plant stem cells
begins with the selection of a donor plant exhibiting desirable biological properties. A tissue sample, typically from the meristematic region, is collected and processed under sterile conditions to isolate undifferentiated cells with high proliferative capacity. These totipotent cells are cultured in vitro in a nutrient-rich solid medium, where they proliferate
** x2.3
25 20 15 10 5 0
Control +66.8% *** p<0.001 compared to basal control; ***
Cistanthe grandiflora stem cell extract 1%
Figure 4: Effect of Cistanthe grandiflora stem cell extract on AQP3 protein levels in human skin explants, as determined by semi-quantitative fluorescence intensity analysis
and form a callus. From this material, the most metabolically active cell lines are selected based on their ability to produce high levels of bioactive compounds. The selected cells are then transferred to
a liquid culture medium, where they grow in suspension under controlled conditions of pH, temperature, oxygenation, and nutrient composition to optimize both cell proliferation and metabolite production. Once sufficient biomass is achieved, the cells
are harvested and subjected to a lysis process to release their intracellular contents. The process is completed through extraction, purification, and standardization steps, ensuring a consistent and high-quality supply of active compounds. This biotechnological system makes it
possible to harness the adaptive strategies of Cistanthe grandiflora, translating its mechanisms of resistance and water regulation into the development of innovative cosmetic ingredients
Aquaporin 3 proteins ■ Cell nucleus ■ Skin Fragment 1 Skin Fragment 2
with high efficacy and sustainability. The activity of the Cistanthe grandiflora stem
cell extract is based on a ‘smart hydration’ system, designed to enhance skin hydration by activating aquaporins and regulating water homeostasis within the epidermis. In particular, this mechanism stimulates the
expression of Aquaporin-3 (AQP3), the main aquaporin involved in water and glycerol transport in the epidermis. By promoting AQP3 activity and maintaining
water homeostasis, the ingredient helps preserve an optimal moisture balance in the skin, resulting in long-lasting hydration and improved skin resilience under environmental stress conditions.
Molecular marker analysis: AQP3 gene expression To evaluate the effect of the Cistanthe grandiflora stem cell extract on cellular hydration, the expression of the AQP3 gene, which encodes aquaporin-3, was analysed. Human keratinocytes were treated with the
extract (1%) for 24 hours. Following treatment, RNA was extracted and gene expression levels were quantified by qPCR, and compared with untreated control cells. The results (Figure 3) showed a significant
increase in AQP3 gene expression, reaching a 2.3- fold upregulation in keratinocytes treated with the Cistanthe grandiflora stem cell extract compared to the untreated control after 24 hours. This increase suggests that the extract
stimulates aquaporin-3 expression, thereby promoting cellular mechanisms involved in epidermal water homeostasis and contributing to improved skin hydration.
Assessment of AQP3 expression in skin explants To further investigate the effect of the Cistanthe grandiflora stem cell extract on skin hydration mechanisms, an ex vivo study was conducted using cultured human skin fragments. Skin samples were treated with the extract (1%; 25–30 mg/cm2
) and
maintained under controlled culture conditions for four days. The expression of Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) was
Figure 5: Fluorescence micrographic assessment of AQP3 expression in human skin explants PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE May 2026
assessed by fluorescence microscopy and semi- quantitative analysis.
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1% Cistanthe grandiflora stem cell extract
Basal Control Relative mRNA expression
Fluorescence A.U.(/µM2)
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