COVER STORY: DOW ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE 7 The higher the blurring effect, the stronger the
imperfection-masking ability. Two key parameters are used to determine the optical benefit of a raw material in a cosmetic formulation: The total light transmission, translating in vivo
into natural skin tone appearance. The diffused light, translating in vivo into maximum optical skin imperfections masking. To have an optimal optical benefit, the
cosmetic raw material is evaluated neat or in a formulation and it needs to exhibit a maximum total light transmission together with a targeted diffused light transmission (haze value) equivalent to or greater than 70. DOWSIL™ EL-9400 Hybrid Elastomer Blend demonstrated the same soft- focus benefit as measured by the Haze Value compared to an incumbent silicone elastomer blend delivered from a silicone carrier. As an example, on the bottom left, we can
see the pictures of a nude primer base that was evaluated on a panelist’s cheek over time. The optical pores masking benefit was quantified using an image analysis VisioFace 1000 D (Courage+Khazaka electronic Gmbh) (Table 1). The images show the skin visually smoother and even while hiding the pores up to at least six hours.
High elastomer wear durability Durability is not typically associated with silicone elastomer blends; yet DOWSIL™ EL-9400 Hybrid Elastomer Blend delivers long-lasting performance in colour cosmetic applications. This differentiated wear resistance is enabled by the hybrid elastomer network, which combines biosourced components with traditional silicone chemistry to create a resilient, film-forming structure that enhances wear resistance. To evaluate durability, a silicone-treated red
iron oxide pigment was blended with DOWSIL™ EL-9400 Hybrid Elastomer Blend and applied to VitroSkin. The coated VitroSkin substrate was then subjected to mechanical abrasion using felt bands for 10 cycles. Colour retention before and after abrasion was quantified using a MACH5+ colorimeter. A lowΔE value (DOWSIL™ EL-9400 Hybrid Elastomer Blend ΔE: ~7.2) indicates minimal colour change and correlates directly with effective film formation and abrasion resistance. Results demonstrate that DOWSIL™ EL-9400 Hybrid Elastomer Blend maintains strong pigment
TABLE 3: INVISIBLE SUNGUARD - CPF 100023962 Translucent sunscreen gel - SPF 24 (calculated) Phase A
Ingredients INCI name Avobenzone Homosalate
Ethylhexyl Salicylate Octocrylene
B
C D
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Caprylyl Methicone Dimethicone C9-12 Alkane
C9-12 Alkane (and) Bis (Dimethylvinylsiloxy) Poly (Propanediol Dimer Dilinoleate)/Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Silica Silylate
Figure 2: Color retention of the pigment measured by colorimetry
BEFORE Abrasion TABLE 2:
Ratio DOWSIL™ EL-9400 Hybrid Elastomer Blend: ingredient
Water Ethanol
HYDROCARBONS Mineral Oil Squalane
SILICONES AFTER 10 rub-off cycles
Caprylyl Methicone Phenyltrimethicone OILS
Sunflower seed oil Castor oil ESTERS
C12-15 Alkyl benzoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride SUNSCREEN
Ethyl Hexyl Salicylate C= compatible and clear
Gel
and film retention following abrasion, supported by both quantitative measurements and visual observations. The hybrid elastomer network formed within the coating provides structural integrity and cohesive strength, allowing the pigment to remain anchored to the substrate. This enhanced durability helps enable formulators and brand owners to develop long-lasting colour cosmetic products while leveraging the sustainability and sensory benefits of DOWSIL™ EL-9400 Hybrid Elastomer Blend.
Expanded formulation options Formulators often face compatibility limitations when integrating elastomer blends into multi-phase formulations. DOWSIL™ EL-9400 Hybrid Elastomer blend
can be successfully integrated into a broad range of formulations thanks to its enhanced compatibility profile, including hydrocarbons,
NC C
NC NC
NC NC
NC H= compatible and hazy Pourable viscous liquid Liquid
silicones, oils, esters and sunscreens as illustrated in Table 2. It allows formulators to increase the viscosity of their oil phases and overall formulation while also achieving high naturality content.
Making invisible sun care possible Thanks to its strong compatibility with sun filters, it supports the development of transparent sun care gels, a format increasingly highlighted by influencers and gaining momentum in 2026. Table 3 shows a sun care formulation named
Invisible Sunguard (SPF 24 calculated) that meets regulations of sun filters in the USA. Variants of this formulation were developed either with higher SPF protection (SPF 50 calculated) or using sun filters meeting regulations in other local regulations.
WT%
3.00 7.00 5.00 9.00 5.00 5.00 5.65 11.25
49.00 0.10
Procedure: 1. Mix phase A ingredients together and heat to 80°C for 10 minutes. When fully dissolved, cool down to RT. 2. Mix phase B ingredients together, then add to phase A. 3. Slowly add phase AB to phase C and mix until homogeneous. 4. Add phase D ingredients in order listed to phase ABC. 5. Add phase E ingredient to phase ABCD and mix until homogeneous.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Conclusion By offering high naturality while preserving luxury performance, DOWSIL™ EL-9400 Hybrid Elastomer Blend supports modern formulation needs. In addition to helping enable formulators to achieve the exceptional feel of silicone elastomer gels within an innovative bio-based platform, it also provides a distinctive enveloping and comfort feel to the skin. Its differentiated wear resistance, soft-focus benefits and broad compatibility empower brands to elevate product experiences by enhancing sensorial richness, allowing the creation of sophisticated textures that consumers love across skin care, sun care, and make up applications. PCM
®™Trademark of The Dow Chemical Company (“Dow”) or an affiliated company of Dow
DOW
www.dow.com/personalcare
May 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
NC C
NC NC
C C
C NC= Not compatible
C C
C H
C C
C 1:9
NC NC
NC NC
1:1
NC NC
NC NC
9:1
NC C
C C
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