44 SENSITIVE SKIN Bacteria
S. aureus (SA)
biofilm
Control
Occupation surface of S. aureus: 70%
Ophiopogon japonicus extract at 0.075%
Occupation surface of S. aureus: 47***%
-33%
Softcare developed a purified natural active ingredient from Ophiopogon japonicus, able to restore the homeostasis of atopic skin. The company used these models to determine the pharmacological activity of its active ingredient on the principal alterations occurring in the course of atopic dermatitis: with the Ophiopogon japonicus extract, the skin barrier is strengthened and hydration is improved. The inflammatory response for its part is
inactivated. The ingredient also has an impact on cutaneous microbiota, by re-equilibrating it (Figure 1). Finally, neuronal hyperreactivity is limited.
These data were complemented with three
clinical studies conducted on volunteers with atopic dermatitis, under control by dermatologists. The first two involved Caucasian children and adults and the third one involved Asian adults. In all three studies, a number of parameters
were measured including the relapse rate, SCORAD (SCORing Atopic Dermatitis) and the quality of life of the volunteers and of their entourage: these are obligatory elements for the validation of the efficacy of a care product for atopic skin. The results showed that, with this active
ingredient, the SCORAD is significantly decreased and the relapse rate is reduced. Treatment provides soothing relief, hydration and comfort. The quality of life of patients and their entourage is considerably improved.5 In order to develop this natural solution,
Silab Softcare selected the tuberous roots of Ophiopogon japonicus. Tubers in its roots are, in fact, reservoir organs ensuring survival of the plant in the winter and during droughts. The supply chain for Ophiopogon japonicus
involves controlling and guaranteeing traceability of the raw material and securing its supply. Work was conducted in close collaboration with producers in order to precisely define contract conditions of cultures and thereby guarantee standardization of the quality of the raw material.
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE May 2026
Ophiopogon japonicus extract at 0.150%
Occupation surface of S. aureus: 26***%
-63% ***: significant results/model compromised with altered barrier function and colonized by S. aureus control (P < 0.001)
Figure 1: Effect of the Ophiopogon japonicus extract applied topically in vitro at 0.075% and 0.150% on the formation of the biofilm by S. aureus Available in preservative-free powder and free
of hazardous or potentially allergenic substances, this active ingredient is totally safe for children and adults with atopic skin. By preventing the appearance of clinical signs
of atopic dermatitis and prolonging periods of remission, the Ophiopogon japonicus extract acts as a relay to corticosteroid treatments and is therefore a dedicated solution to treat this pathology.
Acne Original in vitro and in vivo in-house models to investigate acneic skin The appearance of acne lesions results from the dysfunction of several mechanisms in the pilosebaceous follicle. Four biological components are thus impacted. The first one is the modification of sebaceous gland activity characterized by quantitative and qualitative modifications of sebum. The second biological event occurring
early in the development of acne lesions is hyperkeratinization. Then, modification of the microbiota especially the bacterial species C. acnes (Cutibacterium acnes) is considered to be one of the major pathogenic factors contributing to the development of acne. Finally, inflammation is a biological process present throughout the formation of acne lesions. Silab Softcare decided to target these
components and, to this end, specific in vitro and in vivo models were developed. First, an acne-mimicking model of
reconstructed epidermis stressed with two components characteristic of acneic skin was designed. It included the virulent phylotype of C. acnes (phylotype IA1) and a mixture of sebum lipids (squalene/peroxidated squalene).6 Then, normal human sebocytes from primary
cultures and subjected to hormonal (testosterone), neuronal (substance P) and microbial influences (C. acnes phylotype IA1) were used, as well as Th17 lymphocytes from primary cultures. In addition, a study in vivo of the lipid profile
of sebum was also conducted on volunteers with acne in comparison to healthy volunteers using liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS). This qualitative and quantitative
characterization of the sebum lipids of interest enabled the direct identification in vivo of lipid modifications in acneic skin. Modelling results showed increases in some lipids in volunteers with acne (fatty acids, waxes and squalenes). This is the result of dysfunctions in the synthesis of sebum lipids occurring with this pathology.
Development of a daily care for acneic skin Based on these in vitro and in vivo models, a purified natural active ingredient from Punica granatum able to restore the homeostasis of acneic skin was developed. These models highlighted that this active ingredient restores the homeostasis of acneic skin by targeting the principal abnormalities. Indeed, it regulates the activity of the
sebaceous gland and reduces hyperkeratinization. Then, colonization by the virulent phylotype of C. acnes is limited by reducing bacterial proliferation, quorum sensing activity and biofilm formation. Finally, inflammation is neutralized by limiting keratinocyte and sebocyte inflammatory responses and inflammation mediated by Th17 lymphocytes. In order to determine the in vivo impact of
the Punica granatum extract, a clinical study was conducted on adult Caucasian volunteers with slight to moderate acne. The study involved the analysis of several
parameters such as the number of retention and inflammatory lesions, the GEA score (Global evaluation acne) and the quality of life of subjects. These parameters are required to validate the efficacy of a care product intended to treat acne. The results highlighted that thanks to the active
ingredient, the GEA score significantly decreases, and the number of lesions is reduced (figure 2). As a result, the quality of life of patients improves.
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