58 RHEOLOGY MODIFIERS Diffused Area (related to initial) With polymer ■ Without polymer ■


50 40 30 20 10 0


0 24 Time (Hours)


Figure 9: Diffused area determined using image analysis, after applying 80-90 mg of lipstick on a defined area of tracing paper, followed by storage at 33°C for 72 hours. Test performed in triplicate


diffusion control were studied. The addition of the polymer at 5% resulted in a 20% improvement in payoff compared to the same formulation without the polymer (Figure 9). Moreover, the polymer also reduced oil and


pigment diffusion (Figure 10), which translates to minimized product migration into fine lines—an important benefit for end consumers.


Water resistance While lipsticks formulas inherently have good water resistance due to their oil-based composition, the incorporation of 5% of the polymer further enhances this attribute. The lipstick samples were applied to PMMA substrates and immersed in water for 40 minutes under controlled agitation. Image analysis before and after immersion


Figure 10: Payoff obtained by applying the product to a 3 cm diameter EVA foam circle, using 6 circular motions, and weighing the material deposited. Test performed in triplicate


determined that the addition of the polymer can reduce the ∆E value from 2.5 without polymer to 1.4 with polymer, resulting in a reduced colour loss (Figure 11).


Transparency At higher polymer concentrations, such as 40%, in combination with oils, it allows the creation of transparent sticks with optimal hardness for an effective application (Figure 12). For makeup formulations, these formats


facilitate the incorporation and suspension of effect pigments, ensuring stability over time, and enabling the deposition on the face or lips to achieve an enhanced shiny effect.


Skin cleansing/surfactant systems The polymer can be used to produce unique


With polymer Before Without polymer


formats in surfactant systems, for application on skin and hair. The thickening afforded by the polymer enables formation of solid oil beads in an aqueous, surfactant containing base. This is generated by dispersing a hot oil-phase into a cold aqueous phase with gentle mixing. As the oil droplets are dispersed, rapid cooling allows the polymer to provide structure and turn the oil droplets into solid spherical beads. The aqueous base in this formula contains a small amount of polymeric emulsifier (Pemulen™ EZ-4U polymer) to help stabilize the solid spherical beads in the aqueous surfactant system, as well as Carbopol®


SC-800 polymer to keep the


oil beads suspended (Figure 13). If the polymer is not included in this system,


the resulting formula becomes opaque, as the system becomes a more traditional emulsion


48 72


20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0


+20% Payoff


With polymer ■ Without polymer ■


After ∆E 1.4 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE May 2026 2.5


Figure 11: Images before and after immersion for water resistance analysis with the corresponding ∆E values. Test performed in triplicate


Figure 12: Transparent stick. Contains 40% of polymer, 0.01% of CI 77007 and 0.03% of effect pigments


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Diffused Area (%)


Weight (%)


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