NEWS
Holiferm to build biosurfactant plant
University of Manchester spin-out Holiferm is to build a commercial- scale biosurfactants plant at Wallasey, UK, after receiving an investment of $7 million in a financing round led by Rhapsody Venture Partners of the US. This follows the establishment of a pilot plant at nearby Sci-Tech Daresbury earlier this year. The new plant will
produce 1,100 tonnes/year of biosurfactants, focusing initially on phosphorolipids. Holiferm already produces these for customers including MixCleanGreen, Starbrands, Azelis and Eurosyn. The company is also working in collaboration with BASF on the
Upcycling olive stones for cosmetics
WorléeScrub Olive is a new product from Worlée Cosmetics. It is made by grinding olive stones into powder after drying, using steam to ensure gentle sterilisation. Vegan and COSMOS-certified, with a Natural Origin Index of 1 (ISO 16128), this is aimed at replacing plastic granulates in the processing of vegan or anti-allergic cosmetics The powder is available in fine (300 μm) and coarse (500 μm) forms and can be used accordingly to produce face and body cosmetics in order to obtain an abrasive effect. It is particularly suitable for peelings and shower gels. In the longer term, the company plans to offer further granulates to the range, such as almond kernels.
The facility will have 1,100 tonnes/ year in capacity
next two molecules in its pipeline. Holiferm has developed a
process to make biosurfactants
out semi-continuously, such that they can be made at a price competitive to standard surfactants. The products of common yeast-based batch fermentation processes typically cost five times more to make, according to managing director Richard Lock. “We’re trying to redefine what chemical manufacturing means,” Lock said. “There’s a great misconception that it has to entail huge power stations and industrial plants, but we use a process that is completely green. We are working with a molecule that has been designed not by humans, but by nature.”
Merck launches its “assistant to the skin”
Merck KGaA has launched RonaCare Epintegrity, which, it says “acts like an assistant to the skin by supporting its naturally occurring moisturising factor and providing essential ‘skin food’”. This was inspired by and contains components of the skin’s own Natural Moisturising Factor, together with natural amino acids. “Its important role is to
provide calcium to skin cells in the correct, cell-friendly form – and at just the right places to induce the formation of crucial proteins,” the company said. These include occludin, a key element in building and maintaining skin integrity. RonaCare Epintegrity also supports skin barrier
homeostasis and reinforces the skin defences. The company cited in vitro studies showing that it increases availability of calcium to skin cells, increases desmosomal proteins and supports junction protein formation.
Lubrizol uses AI insights
Lubrizol Life Science – Beauty (LLS Beauty) has introduced its 12-strong ‘Skin Caring Makeup Collection. This, it says, “combines the best of skincare and colour cosmetics with artificial intelligence (AI) insights to deliver on the beauty industry’s up-and- coming trends”. The collection comprises ■ Face: Serum Foundation- No-Foundation, Silky Lightweight Foundation, Blur Perfecting Primer Serum, Miracle Concealer, Glow Makeup Fixer Spray and Glow Makeup Fixer Serum ■ Eyes: Brows & Eyeliner Bar, Straightaway Eyeliner, Essential Mascara and Gelly Eyeshadows ■ Lips: Tinted Glossy Balm and Vinyl Lipgloss The colour cosmetics team within LLS Beauty worked with its Foresee Lab to spot trends and then used AI to pull data and insights from social media conversations. This directed them to focus on the top five targeted and trending benefits of smoothness, long- lasting, colour, protection and moisturisation in designing the collection.
Millet for the microbiota from Rahn
Rahn’s new active ingredient Defensil-Pure is obtained by the fermentation of organic gold millet using a process with optimally adjusted parameters, which results in a greater release of active substances such as minerals in comparison with plain millet extract.
www.personalcaremagazine.com “It naturally balances the skin
microbiota, strengthens the skin barrier and moisturises particularly dry skin. Furthermore, it improves the complexion, and counteracts atopic eczema,” the company said. Rahn cited in vitro studies
demonstrating that the postbiotic ingredients of Defensil-Pure are
able to inhibit the activation of the inflammasome. It further promotes the growth of beneficial bacteria on the skin surface and has the potential to supplant undesirable microorganisms, while protecting atopic skin against further damage and quickly resealing the skin barrier.
November 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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