28 MARINE INGREDIENTS EASY TO APPLY
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ABSORBED INTO THE SKIN Algica HA Figure 7: Algica cosmetic evaluation
black, L*= 100 indicates white. The increase of the L- parameter of the analysed area indicates a shift in the colour towards white. A Minolta Chromameter CR200 was used for an accurate and objective evaluation of the colour of the surfaces. The shift in colour towards white after rinsing off the cream formula indicates that pollution is adhering to the cream and is thereby hindered from entering the skin. Algal shells at 0.1 % in a water-based
solution was compared in this study to untreated skin. A carbon black powder was used as a pollutant in the tests. Evaluation of skin radiance through
analysis of the parameter L showed a statistically significant increase of around 50 % of the L parameter for a solution of algal shells at 0.1 %. The untreated area showed an insignificant increase of the L value of 5%.
Moisturising: Algal shells vs. HA On the shell surface of algal shells a lot of hydroxyl groups can be found. Moisturising ingredients are spotted by their abundance of hydroxyl groups that helps to regulate the moisture levels in the skin since the hydroxyl groups have the ability to bind a large amount of water. External clinical studies have shown that algal shells has at least as good moisturising properties as hyaluronic acid with the size of 800-1200 kDA. In the study, skin capacitance, conductance
and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) after a single application of the creams, and again two hours and four hours after application
Ingredients INCI
was measured. Further studies made during a longer time period comparing algal shells and hyaluronic acid´s moisturising properties are now being conducted and are showing promising results in the favour of algal shells.
Cosmetics evaluation test In a cosmetic evaluation test made at the same time as the moisturising study, the participants were asked to rate attributes of the creams on a visual analogue scale (VAS) from ‘very difficult/worse’ to ‘very easy/best’ after application of the cream to the skin. The cream with algal shells and the cream
with hyaluronic acid were graded from 1 to 16 by the participants where 1 represented ‘very difficult/worse’ and 16 ‘very easy/best’. The cosmetic evaluation showed a preference for Algica over hyaluronic acid. A cream formulation containing Algica is perceived as easier to apply and more easily absorbed by the skin.
Cleansing ability of algal shells Algal shells can effectively absorb impurities, oil, and sweat from the skin due to its unique pore structure and thereby high surface area. In a study algal shells was compared with a commonly used highly absorptive and cleansing ingredient. The comparison showed that Algica absorbs ten times more sweat and 15 times more oil. A comparison of how fast oil and water was absorbed was also made. The highly developed porous funnel structure of algal shells with intertwined layers of pores, provided a three times faster absorption.
FORMULATION 1: EXAMPLE FORMULATION – FACIAL CREAM WITH ALGICA Phase A
Deionised water Algica
B
Preservative Xanthan gum Emulsion
C
Rosehip seed oil Apricot kernel oil E-vitamin Lactic acid Essential oil
Aqua Silica (algae)
Glycerin, Aqua, Sodium levulinate, Sodium anisate Xanthan gum
Arachidyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, Arachidyl glucoside Rosa rubiginosa seed oil Prunus armeniaca kernel oil
Tocopherol, Helianthus annuus seed oil Lactic acid Parfum
% w/w 70.05 0.10 3.00 0.30 5.00 8.50 11.50 0.25 0.20 q.s.
Procedure: Start to weigh all ingredients. Phase A. Algica® is best dissolved in a volume of water corresponding to the same volume of Algica®. For example, combine 0.1 gram of Algica® with 5 g of deionised water. Heat to 70°-80°C and stir for approx. 60 minutes until all particles are dispersed. Then add the rest of the water, preservative and xanthan gum. Phase B. Combine all ingredients and heat to 80° C until all ingredients are dissolved. Make sure Phase A and B have the same temperature and add Phase B into Phase A. Mix vigorously for approx. 2-3 minutes. Cool Phase AB during stirring, when the formula reaches 30°C add Phase C.
Conclusion & discussion Independent clinical studies showcase the multifunctional effects of Algica. When used in low concentrations of 0.1 %, Algica show potential of increasing the SPF of a sunscreen formulation with an average of 23 % based on in vitro studies. At the same level of inclusion, air pollution such as NOx and PM will be blocked from entering the skin by 24-50% based on results from two in vivo studies. The moisturising effect is at least similar to medium molecular hyaluronic acid and the cleansing effect is at least ten times better and three times faster than a commonly used cleansing ingredient. Algica is not only effective, but also
sustainable, human- and ocean-safe. When the algae grow, they can use nutrient-rich water from food industries that otherwise would have been wasted and thereby return nitrogen and phosphorus from the wastewater back into the food value chain. Algae also work as natural carbon capturers. The circular production of Algica makes this multifunctional ingredient even more sustainable and can thereby help to push the industry towards becoming even more sustainable. As of today, Algica is produced in a small
greenhouse facility. The increased demand for this ingredient has led to the construction of a new larger facility that will be operational early 2022.
References 1. National Geographic (2019). What sunscreens are best for you—and the planet? https://
www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/ article/sunscreen-destroying-coral-reefs- alternatives-travel-spd (2021-04-16)
2. BBC (2020). Palau is first country to ban ‘reef toxic’ sun cream.
https://www.bbc.com/news/ world-asia-50963080 (2021-04-16)
3. Prevention (2017) Are Your Beauty Products Toxic? Here’s Everything You Need To Know.
https://www.prevention.com/beauty/ a20511204/toxic-beauty-products/ (2021-04-16)
4. Yanran Huang, Japhet Cheuk-Fung Law, Tsz-Ki Lam, Kelvin Sze-Yin Leung. (2021) Risks of organic UV filters: a review of environmental and human health concern studies. Science of The Total Environment 755: 142486
5. Aguirre LE. Ouyang L. Elfwing A. Hedblom M. Wulff A. Inganäs O. (2018) Diatom frustules protect DNA from ultraviolet light. Nature Scientific Reports, 8:5138
PERSONAL CARE November 2021
www.personalcaremagazine.com PC
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LIKING PREFERENCE Algica HA
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Algica
HA
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