86 SKIN CARE Placebo % A Aqua Echium oil Increase stability to oxidation by 102-fold Lipophilic active 0 5 10 15 Oxidative stability index
Figure 4: Oxidative stability of the lipophilic active The high SDS content of Echium oil
makes it unique among plant seed oils. As a precursor of eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), SDA is a powerful anti-inflammatory substance and acts also to protect the skin from environmental damage.9 Extracts of Cnidium monnieri fruit are a
source of various compounds such as osthol, a lipophilic biologically active molecule used in traditional Chinese medicine.10
Osthol is
endowed with various biological properties, such as the promotion of cell viability, reduction of intracellular oxidative stress and alleviation of inflammation.11-12
Interestingly,
osthol is an activator of the PPAR- α/γ pathways involved in cell differentiation and lipid metabolism stimulation.13 Rosemary extract, obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction from the leaves of Rosmarinus
officinalis, stabilises the lipophilic matrix, preventing oxidation.14
The lipophilic active
represents an ideal stabilised complex of lipophilic ingredients to protect and repair the skin barrier function and soothe irritation upon exposure to chemical stress, such as ethanol or surfactants, the main ingredients of hand sanitisers and personal cleansing products, respectively.
Rancimat test The lipophilic active is a unique source of omega-3 and -6 essential fatty acids. Unsaturated fatty acids are known to have several biological actions but are also prone to oxidation, because of their double bonds. Preserving oxidative stability is mandatory to maintaining biological functionality. In this method, a sample of oil is heated
under atmospheric pressure and air is allowed to bubble through the oil at a selected temperature. Under these conditions, a lipoperoxidative reaction occurs and the short-chain volatile acids produced are recovered and measured by an increase in the conductivity of distilled water. The time required to produce a sudden
increase in conductivity, due to the formation of volatile acids, determines an induction time – also known as the Rancimat time – which can be defined as a measure of the oxidative stability of oil. A Metrohm 743 Rancimat was used in compliance with the ISO 6886-2006 method. Rancimat time was measured for the lipophilic active in comparison to standard Echium plantagineum seed oil. Oxidative stability was measured at 110°C.
PERSONAL CARE November 2021
8 6 4 2 0
-2 -4 -6 -8
20 Alcohol
B Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
C Activoil Echnidium ZRO
D Parfum
E Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine
Active %
Up to 100 Up to 100 70.00
0.35 – 0.20 a.n.
70.00 0.35
1.00 0.20 a.n. Funtion
Sanitizer Thickener
Lipophilic active Perfume
Neutralising agent
Figure 5: Alcohol-based sanitiser (placebo) & same formulation containing 1% lipophilic active
Placebo ■ Lipophilic active ■
30’
Time
14d Figure 6: Variation in skin moisturisation upon alcohol-based sanitiser application Placebo ■ Lipophilic active ■
6 4 2 0
-2 -4 -6
30’
Time
Figure 7: Variation in TEWL upon alcohol-based sanitiser application Despite the presence of a high level of
unsaturated fatty acids, a key feature of the lipophilic active is its high oxidative stability. Indeed, the incorporation of Rosemary extract together with Echium plantagineum seed oil and Cnidium monnieri fruit extract provided increased stability to oxidation 102-fold in comparison to normal Echium oil (Figure 4).
Skin barrier function & hydration evaluation on sanitiser application The study was aimed at assessing the preventive action of the lipophilic active, included in a sanitiser gel containing 70% ethanol, in limiting the aggressiveness of the alcohol on the skin. For this placebo- controlled clinical protocol, 20 healthy subjects were enrolled. An alcohol-based sanitiser (placebo) and the same formulation containing 1% of the lipophilic active (Figure 5) were topically applied three times a day, in accordance with a randomised scheme. Clinical evaluations of skin moisturisation
(Corneometer®, Courage+Khazaka) and TEWL (Tewameter 300®, Courage+Khazaka) were
14d
measured at Day 0 (baseline), 30 minutes after the first application and after 14 days of treatment. The instrumental data were submitted to the one-way Student’s t-test for paired data.
The lipophilic active, added to a
formulation containing 70% ethanol, not only succeeded in preventing the dry skin caused by alcohol, but it also improved skin moisturisation and protected skin barrier function. It revealed a significant improvement in skin moisturisation (+3.7% and +5.8% after 30 minutes and 14 days respectively, Figure 6) and a reduction in TEWL from the first application (-3.5% after 30 minutes), while keeping the skin barrier conditions unchanged after 14 days of use (-2.2% after 14 days of treatment, Figure 7). It is worth noting that the placebo caused
skin dehydration (a reduction in moisturisation of -3.8% and -3.2% after 30 minutes and 14 days, respectively, Figure 6) and skin barrier disruption (an increase in TEWL of +0.7% since the first application and +4.6% after 14 days of treatment, Figure 7).
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% variation in TEWL
% variation in skin moisturisation
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