74 LIFESTYLE


concerns. Some of the most commonly used ones, such as those based on acrylates or polyvinylpyrollidone, share a C-C backbone that cannot be broken down by enzymes and they therefore accumulate in the environment.15 Natural film formers, such as xanthan gum,


are found in nature and are therefore fully biodegradable. However, they tend not to perform as well as synthetic film formers as their films are often flaky and not as strong as synthetic films. While consumers want to be more eco-friendly, they are not willing to compromise on performance. Combining the performance attributes of a


synthetic polymer with the renewable sources of natural film formers, is therefore a great way to achieve a well-rounded product that gives consumers both the performance and sustainability they need. One such solution is Baycusan Eco E 1000 (INCI: Polyurethane-93) which contains 55% renewable carbon, has equal performance to synthetic polymers, such as acrylate copolymer, and outperforms many others. It is also readily biodegradable according to OECD 301.16 Using ingredients like this can significantly


improve the performance of a natural product while only having a small impact on the naturality – a necessary compromise in a lot of cases. The use of natural ingredients can also have an impact on the environment from which is it sourced, and in some cases, synthetic ingredients can be more sustainable than their natural alternatives. Cosmetic ingredients are often produced


on a large scale and this could have damaging effects on ecosystems from which they are sourced.17


Other natural products, such as


collagen, require an animal source, which limits their use in modern cosmetics as the industry pushes towards vegan ingredients. In these cases, it could be more sustainable to create a synthetic alternative. For example, ColFrag (INCI: Collagen Amino


Acids) is a vegan collagen fragment produced in non-GMO plants using a transient expression vector containing genetic material coding for the collagen protein. This allows the ingredient to be produced in a sustainable way, using pesticide-free plants and conditions designed for efficiency. It also allows the proper post- translational modifications to be made to the protein in the plant, which increases efficacy and safety.18 Alternatively, natural cosmetic ingredients


can be produced from by-products of the food and drink industry, a process known as upcycling. Botrytis cinerea/Passiflora Edulis fruit extract/Piceatannol ferment lysate filtrate, for example, is an upcycled anti-dandruff active, produced from the pressed seeds of passionfruit from the juicing industry. This product undergoes an enzymatic


bioconversion reaction which enhances the active molecule in the passionfruit extract, picceatannol. Botrytis cinerea is used to produce the enzyme laccase, which is combined with picceatannol to convert it to the more potent picceatannol dimers, providing improved anti-inflammatory and microbiome balancing properties.18


PERSONAL CARE November 2021 As well as enhanced performance, synthetic


materials can sometimes provide a more reliable supply chain. Mica has been used for over 4,000 years as a medicine and for decoration, and is now very commonly used in cosmetic products to give a shimmery, pearlescent appearance.19 However, in the last few decades the mining


of mica has been under scrutiny as it became clear that child labour was widely used in the mines at some of the most prominent sources. Some companies and initiatives put resources into ensuring their supply chains are robust and free from child labour, and others switched to synthetic fluorphlogopite, a mica alternative.20-22 Synthetic fluorphlogopite offers technical


benefits too. The pearlescent effect is due to the reflection of light from the surface of the pearlescent pigment’s platelets. Thus, the properties of the surface have a significant impact on their appearance. The jagged edges of natural mica, like broken tiles on a roof, cause light to be reflected in many different directions, which gives it a softer sheen. Synthetic fluorphlogopite is more uniform with defined edges, resulting in a more reflective surface and a brighter product with a more distinct interference colour. It can also be sourced closer to the manufacturing location, as its production is not constrained by the location of mines.


Local vs global sourcing Sourcing products locally has obvious environmental benefits, as transportation costs and carbon emissions are both reduced. There are also socioeconomic benefits, such as jobs and income for local communities. Conversely, the sourcing of cosmetic ingredients from poorer, rural areas can assist communities in more distant locations. Shea trees grow across 21 countries in Africa, and the majority of shea exports come from West Africa. The industry revolves around the 16 million women who collect the shea kernels, and rely on this trade as a significant part of their household income.23,24


There are also many initiatives which aim to support the shea collectors, providing training and resources to make the shea collecting process more efficient, as well as pre-financing the shea collectors to help spread their income throughout the year, rather than being paid seasonally. This can be beneficial for the manufacturer too, as they are able to fully trace their material back to the source, and have full confidence in their supply chain and quality of their products. Shea grows only in these areas therefore


sourcing must be managed responsibly. Women’s alliances offer the traceability to ensure the integrity of the supply chain. Of course, for European manufacturers there is more transportation involved in sourcing raw materials from Africa and hence the environmental impact can be larger. However, with environmentally responsible choices, for example shipping by sea instead of air freight, the impacts can be minimised. Where there is a choice between sourcing


locations, it is important to consider other attributes of the product too. For example, a full lifecycle analysis (LCA) by AAK has shown that Swedish canola oil has a much lower environmental impact than its Canadian and Australian counterparts. Regardless of the type of transportation used and distance travelled, it has a 58% lower carbon foot print than Canadian oil and seven times lower than Australian. The LCA also takes into account aspects of production such as land and energy use, eutrophication and acidification.


Aqueous vs. anhydrous Shipping and transportation are also concerns for the final product itself. The majority of liquid personal care products contain water, some up to 80%, which does not necessarily provide any benefit to the product other than being a carrier for the functional and active materials.25


The


products are then shipped around the globe, using fuel and creating unnecessary emissions. This realisation has led many brands to create waterless products, in the form of oils, bars and powders. Many waterless products are concentrated


forms of their aqueous predecessors, which require the user to add water immediately before use; whether that is wetting the bar before using it on skin or adding a few drops to a small amount of powder to create a usable product. The consumer can also use less of the product as the active ingredients are more concentrated, meaning each pack lasts a lot longer. Furthermore, waterless products tend to


be smaller and lighter and so require less fuel to transport. They also use less packaging and the packaging that is used, is commonly made out of materials such as cardboard, which are perceived as being more eco-friendly. The lack of water and solid nature means that waterproof primary packaging is no longer necessary. All good so far, but a seemingly simple


Figure 2: The new Balm Melt Beauty Candle contains both Swedish canola oil and shea from a traceable sourcing programme in West Africa


change is not quite as uncomplicated as it first appears. In removing the water and changing to solid products, there are other aspects of production to consider.


www.personalcaremagazine.com


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