MARINE INGREDIENTS
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Figure 3: Algica shell under the microscope
have been wasted. Each ton of Algica traps at least eight tonnes of CO2
and returns at least
one tonne of nitrogen and 100 kg phosphorus from wastewater into the food value chain annually. Thus, using the organic by-product after extraction of Algica for feed and fertiliser production. On the west coast of Sweden, the climate is perfect to grow diatoms during controlled forms in greenhouses. Based on its natural ocean origin and sustainable production process Algica (now referred to as ‘algal shells’) has been verified by the international network Ecocert and is a COSMOS-approved ingredient.
The UV light blocking and SPF boosting effect of diatom shells In 2018, Angela Wulff published an article in in the reputable science magazine Nature Science Reports,5
together with renowned
researchers in optics. With this article they showed that shells of diatoms protect the DNA of diatoms from ultraviolet light. The algae will both reflect and, in some cases, also absorb the UV light. This absorption seems to partly be linked
to manipulation of UV light. This research is ongoing, and Angela Wulff is leading a larger project with renowned Swedish and Italian researchers to learn more about the UV light blocking mechanism of diatom shells.
18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0
Figure 4: Diatoms under the microscope In 2020 we conducted a first clinical in vitro
study with an external institute to validate if this UV light blocking effect could boost the SPF of sunscreen products. In the study algal shells at 0.1% was combined with the known physical UV filters zinc oxide and titanium dioxide in a sunscreen formulation and compared with a control that did not contain algal shells. The test products were spread as a thin film on a suitable synthetic substrate and the UV absorbance through this film was measured with a spectrophotometer. The results showed that algal shells when used at only 0.1% increased the SPF in the formulation, with an average of 23%. In vivo studies are now being conducted to confirm these in vitro results.
Anti-pollution tests measured by SQOOH reduction A clinical study made by proDERM showed that algal shells block an average of 29% of pollution such as nitrogen oxides (NOx) and particulate matter (PM) from entering the skin. In this study the increased content of
squalene monohydroperoxide (SQOOH) in the skin was measured after exposure to pollution. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) as contained in the pollutant can react with the different major components of the skin (lipids, DNA and
13.67
+23% 16.76
100.00 80.00 60.00 40.00 20.00 0.00
Control Algica 0.1% Figure 5: Algica 0.1% as an SPF booster & control cream
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Bare skin Gel without Algica
Algica at 1.0% Algica at 5.0% Gel with Gel with Figure 6: Algica anti-pollution study measure SQOOH content November 2021 PERSONAL CARE
proteins). The action of ROS on lipids lead to peroxidation products in skin sebum like malondialdehyde (MDA) and SQOOH. In the study the increased SQOOH
concentration was measured when pollution was added to: ■ Bare skin ■ Skin with addition of a gel containing only water and a gelling agent ■ Skin with addition of the gel + 0.1 % algal shells ■ Skin with addition of the gel + 0.5 % algal shells
The results showed an in average 24%
lower SQOOH content in skin exposed to a gel with 0.1 % algal shells and an in average 29% lower SQOOH content in skin exposed to a gel with 0.5 % algal shells.
Anti-pollution measured by L-value In a second study the L parameter was evaluated. In L-value tests algal shells blocked five times more carbon particles from entering the skin in comparison with bare skin. In order to assess the anti-adhesion effect
of the micro-particles on the skin surface the L parameter is evaluated. Parameter L, one of the coordinates of the CIE 1976 (L*, a*, b*) colour space, is used to express the brightness of the colour: L*=0 indicates
Average SPF
ΔSQOOH Content (ng/mg)
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