HAIR STYLING


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Figure 8: Scanning electron microscopy of hair from Strand 4 hair & detail of the cuticles


8. The ends of strand 4, treated with bleaching powder with 2% added powdered liposome, can be combed easily and with very little breakage. At first glance, these hair tips are more lubricated and look healthier than the end of strand 3. 9. The ends of strand 5, treated with bleaching powder added with 3% powdered liposome, is the most lubricated and healthy of the treated locks. This strand is amazingly easy to style and maintains some degree of elasticity.


Evaluating oxidative damage to hair ■ Objective: The ability of the powdered liposome to counter oxidative damage to hair During this process the -S-S- are broken and


oxidised, thus forming S=O. These changes in functional groups can be observed in IR spectra and, in this way, assess oxidative hair damage. An increase in the functional groups S=O implies greater capillary damage, since they are the consequence of the rupture of the disulfide bridges and subsequent oxidation.


Figure 10: Scanning electron microscopy of hair from Strand 5 hair & detail of the cuticles This weakens the hair fibre, reduces elasticity


and makes it more brittle. Further, these alkaline processes produce the hydrolysis of proteins, decreasing the thickness, making the hair more porous and eliminating natural lubrication.


■ Method: Five locks of virgin hair (untreated) of 3 grams each are prepared and four of them are bleached with the following combinations:


Lock 1: Control without treatment Lock 2: Bleaching powder Lock 3: Bleaching powder + 1% powdered liposome Lock 4: Bleaching powder + 2% powdered liposome Lock 5: Bleaching powder + 3% powdered liposome The treated locks are evaluated by infrared


spectrophotometry


■ Materials & equipment: Infrared spectrophotometer (FTIR) Model: Avatar 360/ Brand: Thermo Accessory for internal reflectance (Smart


internal Reflectance)/Brand: Harrick Virgin untreated dark brown hair


■ Bleaching powder (Brand: Issue) ■ Hydrogen peroxide 40 vol. (Brand: Issue) ■ Hair dryer (Philips) 1. Five locks of dark brown natural virgin hair were prepared, without dying or bleaching, of 3 grams each. 2. Four locks were discolored mixing 10 gram. of the corresponding bleaching powder with 20 ml of 40 volume hydrogen peroxide. Discoloration time was 60 minutes 3. Then, the treated locks were washed with plenty of warm water for two minutes. 4. They were wiped clean, and dried using a hot air hair dryer at medium temperature for three minutes. 5. The locks were discoloured in the same way for four consecutive cycles.


Figure 11: Discolored hair locks and untreated lock control after 4 cycles. Lock 1: Control Lock 2: Bleaching powder, Lock 3: Bleaching powder + Decovec 1%, Lock 4: Bleaching powder + Decovec 2%, Lock 5: Bleaching powder + Decovec 3%


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■ Results: The quantification of the area of the peak corresponding to the functional group S=O allows us to have an idea of the damage caused by oxidation, since the normal disulfide bonds in the hair (-S-S-) are broken and oxidised to form sulfur oxides (S=O). The larger the measured area, the greater the oxidation damage (Figures 11-15). As can be seen in Table 1, untreated hair has a very small area, compared to discoloured hair.


November 2021 PERSONAL CARE


Figure 9: Scanning electron microscopy of hair from Strand 5 hair & detail of the cuticles


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