38 ANTI-POLLUTION Polymers (1% active matter)
140 90 40
-10 -60 -110
Hispagel 200 (INCI: Glycerin (and) Glyceryl Polyacrylate)
Adhesion Removability
Star ingredients Polymers
Rheocare XGN (INCI: Xanthan Gum)
Tinovis GTC UP (INCI: Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer)
* * * * * * * * * * * *
Rheocare C Plus (INCI: Carbomer)
* Untreated Emollients
Cetiol Ultimate (INCI: Undecane (and) Tridecane)
Rheocare XGN (INCI: Xanthan Gum)
Anti-adhesion: Amounty adhering to the skin in relation to untreated skin (baseline=0); the higher the score, the more PM adheres to the skin.
Figure 2: Anti-adhesion Note: Amount adhering to the skin in relation to untreated skin (baseline = 0); the higher the score, the more PM adheres to the skin
test area. Using a tribology rig that produces standardised pressure, acceleration and velocity conditions (3N, 50 mm/s), we applied 1 ml of the test substance on a cotton pad to the head of the rig. We looked at two areas of the slide: the part where the substance was originally applied to see what was removed (cleansing) and another where it was not applied but the substance had moved there (smearing). Pictures were taken before and after, and
image analysis was used to calculate both. This established that there were quite a few differences between the different ingredients across these two parameters. Broadly speaking, emollients improve cleansing efficacy compared to water and high- spreading emollients reduced smearing. The star ingredients were Cetiol® Ultimate (INCI: Undecane (and) Tridecane) and Cetiol® Sensoft (INCI: Propylheptyl Caprylate).
From ingredients to formulations Following on from this, we moved to designing formulations based on results and demonstrating their performance for claim substantiation. To this end, we developed three formulations.
Polymers 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Naturecare Anti-Pollution Matrix (Table 1)
was developed for optimised anti-adhesion and removability. This O/W emulsion has a viscosity of about 38,000 mPas and is based on BASF’s sugar-based emulsifier Emulgade® PL 68/50 (INCI: Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol) because these types of emulsifiers performed best for anti-adhesion and removability in screening. The formulation was stabilised using xanthan
gum. Undecane (and) Tridecane, the best performing emollient for these criteria, was also added at 2.5%. The actives Covi-ox® T90 EU C (INCI: Tocopherol) and PatcH2
O® A00297 (INCI:
Aqua, Glycerin, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Trehalose, Urea, Serine, Pentylene Glycol, Algin, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pullulan, Disodium Phosphate, Potassium Phosphate) were used for the same reason. Naturecare Anti-Pollution Matrix combines
the translucent appearance and the fresh sensation of a hydrogel with the caring and protecting attributes of an emulsion. It is non-sticky, with light, fast-absorbing and silky sensory properties. Tests showed a significant decrease of pollutant adhesion (+10% compared to untreated skin) compared to a benchmark product (+137%) that also claims anti-pollution
and is used in skin care. Removability was also markedly better (-59% vs. -33%). ‘Don’t let the dirt in’ Shielding Skin Cream
(Table 2), with a viscosity of around 150,000 mPas, is suitable for application on the face. Xanthan Gum and Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer were also among the ingredients. All of the four emollients used had demonstrated good anti-penetration effects. Compared to a benchmark that showed 50% penetration, this showed only 15%. This cream combines properties of a hydrogel
and a customary O/W emulsion, resulting in a light, fast absorbing emulsion. It offers a luxurious texture with easy gliding, is non-sticky and has soft sensory properties, without any need for silicones. For cleansing, we developed a transparent,
yellowish oil called ‘Soothing Cleansing Transformer’. This can be used directly or mixed with a few drops of water in the hand to transform the texture from oil to balm for use at the end of the day. It provides a velvet and silky touch and contains no silicones, preservatives, mineral oils or ethylene oxide. The formulation (not shown) contains five different emollients that had all shown
Star ingredients Polymers
Rheocare XGN (INCI: Xanthan Gum)
Tinovis GTC UP (INCI: Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer)
Cosmedia Triple C (INCI: Polyquatemium-37 (and) Dicaprylyl Carbonate (and)
Lauryl Glucoside)
Cosmedia Ultragel 300 (INCI: Polyquatemium-37 (and) Dicaprylyl Carbonate (and) Lauryl Glucoside)
Emollients
Anti-penetration effect of polymers tested in aqueous solutions with 0.125% active matter, relative to untreated control (100% penetration)
The higher the score, the more fluorescent dye penetrated
Figure 3: Anti-penetration effect of polymers Note: Tested in aqueous solutions with 0.125% active matter relative to untreated control (100% penetration). The higher the score, the more fluorescent dye penetrated
PERSONAL CARE November 2021
www.personalcaremagazine.com All tested Emulsifiers
Emulgade PL 68/50 (INCI: Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol)
Emulgade Sucro Plus (INCI: Sucrose Polystearate (and) Cetyl Palmitate)
better
Penetration % better worse
adhesion rel. to untreated % mean particle size˜80 µm
Cosmedia Ultragel 300 Luvimar 100p Tinovis GTCUP Polyurethane-39
Rheocare HSP-1180 Luviset Clear AT3
Luvimar 100p
Luviquat Supreme AT1 Luviskol Plus
Rheocare C Plus Cosmedia DC
Cosmedia Triple C Luvigel EM
Cosmedia SP Hispagel 200
Luvigel One Luviflex Soft
Cosmedia Ultragel 300
Rheocare C Plus Rheocare XGN
272
Reference Cosmedia ACE
Cosmedia SP Cosmedia Triple C
Cosmedia Ultragel 300 Hispagel 200 Luviflex Soft Luvigel Star
Luviquat Supreme Luviset One Rheocare C Plus Rheocare HSP Rheocare XGN Tinovis GTC UP
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