2CvAd 16.qxp_Layout 1 13/10/2021 14:36 Page 1 NEWS
New UVB filter from DSM
DSM has launched Parsol EHT, an eco-friendly UVB filter. The company says that this has an E1/1 peak of over 1,500 in the UVB range, meaning that it “delivers the highest absorption in the market today”. It is compatible with other organic and inorganic UV filters, as well as being photostable and inert In tests using DSM’s Sunscreen
Optimizer tool, Parsol EHT scored high for both UVB absorbance and eco-friendliness, the latter being evaluated based on the persistence, bioaccumulation and toxicity data. It is also easy to formulate and compatible with top market UVA solutions, making it suitable for a full range of applications, the company said. DSM’s formulators have designed the Featherlight Cream SPF 50 guide formulation to illustrate the potential of Parsol EHT. “Combining fast absorption and a silky touch with high protection into
the blue light range, this formulation also comes with an eco-class A rating,” the firm stated. Separately, DSM has carried out
in vitro studies which found that its Alpaflor Edelweiss CB organic plant extract counters the negative effects of advanced glycation end products (AGEs), as well as its known ability to protect against ROS-associated signs of skin ageing through its free radical-scavenging properties. The studies showed that the
extract decreased AGE formation by 55%; inhibited collagen Type IV glycation by 67%; and increased the activity of glyoxalase-1 (Glo-1) by 65%. Glo-1 plays a key role in protecting keratinocyte proteins against oxidative damage during skin ageing. Further studies, DSM said, showed that the extract reverses the glycation process by 47% and boost collagen I and IV expression by 111% and 171% respectively.
Gattefossé fights gravity
Gattefossé has developed EleVastin, a 100% biobased ingredient which it describes as an “all-natural solution designed to fight gravity-induced skin sagging”. The new product strengthens the elasticity of the skin, giving it the support needed to cope with this downward pressure and restore volumes of the lower face, it is claimed. EleVastin first boosts the
synthesis of key proteins for the assembly of functional elastic fibres, elastin, fibrillin-1 and fibulin-5. It also protects the elastic fibres from degradation by inhibiting the proteolytic activity of MMP-12. Through this mechanism
of action, Gattefossé said, “it ensures an increase of the density of elastic fibres, coupled with an augmented skin elasticity”. The product was tested
using spheroids treated with 0.1% EleVastin in Gattefossé’s cell culture laboratory against an untreated control, which proved the recovery of proper tissue elasticity. Further tested at 1% on 37 volunteers, it proved its ability to reduce drooping of the lower face. Various assessment methods demonstrated its performance on skin elasticity and facial contour redefinition. In addition, the impact of gravity on the lower face was significantly reduced by 49%.
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www.personalcaremagazine.com
November 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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