HAIR STYLING
Hair care with 100% plant-based ingredients
Ophélie Bourgon – Marketing Manager, Roquette, France Due to COVID-19, we have observed new
There is no longer one hair product that works for all hair types, but the COVID-19 crisis has shifted the focus from appearance to care as consumers re-evaluated their hair needs, and they now look into the ‘skinification’ (i.e., scalp care and health) of the hair care offer. The hair care market is resilient. According
to Mintel GNPD, hair products (shampoo, conditioner, treatment and styling products) accounted for 12% of global beauty and personal care launches in 2020, the same as in 2019. Health is going to be the key driver for the
coming years, for both scalp and hair. Moreover, in the different regions of the world, ‘natural’ is also a fundamental word for consumers. In addition to health, embracing diversity and providing multifunctional ingredients will also drive the market for years to come.
Claims depending on categories For shampoos and conditioners, the focus is on bringing strength, moisture and repair to hair making them healthier and stronger. As we now think of our scalp as an extension of our skin, in this specific category claims are increasing with regard to the scalp. To nourish, soothe or even exfoliate the scalp is the first step towards having healthy hair. Finally, but importantly, clean and eco-friendly formats are also moving fast, with solid shampoos and conditioners.
T-1 HOUR
types of claims like ‘antimicrobial’ in hair treatments. The idea behind this buzzword is to balance the microbiota and help to mitigate the overproduction on the scalp of certain bacteria and fungi, which can cause dandruff, redness or irritation. For hair care products, consumers are
expecting performance, care but also fun and convenience. Brands need to recognise that one product does not fit all hair and increase their communication around how a specific product formula works on each type of hair. At Roquette, we unleash the power of nature
to bring versatile 100% plant-based ingredients to meet the needs of consumers. Likewise, as we know that consumers’ expectations are high in hair care, we provide ingredients with proven benefits. This article introduces various different Roquette Beauté ingredients.
Hydroxypropyl starch Hydroxypropyl starch is a 100% plant-based ingredient, derived from peas and with proven benefits for hair care and protection. It allows the hair to resist humidity and to keep the length and interval of each curl to provide beautiful curly hair in all situations. When used at 1%, it is as efficient as 5% polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) at maintaining curl retention when added in an aqueous solution (Figure 1).
T-4 HOUR Hydroxypropyl starch was also tested at 1%
in a leave-on application. After application on wet, natural, Indian curly hair tresses, its efficacy was measured using a ‘shuffle bolero’ system. Hydroxypropyl starch from pea prevents the hair from ‘swelling’, with no volume increase after eight hours. It also provides strong anti-frizz benefits for curly hair in a humid atmosphere (25°C, 90% relative humidity, Figure 2). Hydroxypropyl starch is thus the perfect
addition to a natural hair styling formulation. It holds hairstyle for a long time while maintaining the hair’s beauty and avoiding the cardboard effect. In addition, hydroxypropyl starch is a hair
protector. As consumers, we dry, style and/ or straighten our hair every day. As brands, we need to provide protection. Hydroxypropyl starch protects the cuticle and cortex region from heat application on the hair. Figure 3 shows a test that was done by inducing heat stress (95°C for 20 minutes) that increases the production of carbonylated proteins both in the cortex and cuticle when the hair is not protected by hydroxypropyl starch.
Scalp care & anti-dandruff benefits The hair care market is evolving and promoting scalp care benefits. Blurring the line with skincare is necessary – indeed, this drives the market in Asia. Anti-dandruff innovations
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PVP 1%
PVP 5%
hydroxypropyl starch 1%
hydroxypropyl starch 5%
PVP 1%
PVP 5%
hydroxypropyl starch 1%
Figure 1: Influence of hydroxypropyl starch in aqueous solution vs. PVP on curl retention at 1 (left) & 4 (right) hours
www.personalcaremagazine.com November 2021 PERSONAL CARE
hydroxypropyl starch 5%
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