COVER STORY: ELEMENTIS Synthetic Sodium Magnesium Hectorite 1 2 BENTONE HYDROCLAY 2100 3
Competitor Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
7
Figure 2: Visualisation of enhanced cleansing properties of BENTONE HYDROCLAY™ 2100
skin. The clay takes up unwanted components on the skin’s surface and exchanges them for nourishing minerals like sodium, calcium or magnesium. This results in a superior cleansing and detoxifying efficacy compared to other clay-based technologies. To prove the outstanding cleansing efficiency
of hectorite, a wash experiment was conducted using a simple cleansing cream formulation with 3% BENTONE HYDROCLAY™ 2100 and 3% competitive clay materials respectively. A blend of artificial sebum and black pigments applied on a forearm was washed off under running tap water using a clay cleansing cream. The residual pollution on skin was visualised using a Courage&Khazaka VisioFace RD (Figure 2). The result shows the excellent cleansing ability of BENTONE HYDROCLAY 2100 compare to the competitive products.
Benefits for W/O emulsions When formulating for oil-based systems, a slight organic modification allows the hectorite to bring similar benefits to the oil phase. This so-called organoclay technology is commercially available under the BENTONE GEL® and BENTONE® LUXE series. Both are provided in an easy-to-use, cold-processable gel format, they only use certified sustainable palm oil derivatives and can be up to 99% natural according to the ISO 16128 standard of naturally derived ingredients.
70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
BENTONE GEL® LC V, the latest addition
to the series, utilises the natural vehicle C9-12 alkane to respond to the silicone-free trend
and can be used both in skin care and colour cosmetic products. It imparts a similar low shine and low-residual skin feel profile to the volatile cyclopentasiloxane (D5) but provides more play time to a formulation. BENTONE GEL® LC V provides a thixotropic flow behaviour, as well as the same outstanding resilience to heat. While the BENTONE GEL® series focuses on structuring and stabilising the oil phase of a formulation, it is also suitable for water-free systems, whereas BENTONE® LUXE products can act as the sole emulsifier and stabiliser in the system. BENTONE® LUXE XO, the newest addition to this series, is a step change in formulating for the new normal skin care trends. The shift towards more skin cleansing and sanitising routines is increasing the demand for more nourishing and less irritating applications. BENTONE® LUXE XO can create emulsions ranging from low to extremely high oil loads, yet maintaining the benefits of a velvety skin feel and excellent freeze-thaw stability. Formulation concepts like the High Oil BB
Cream (C-2035-02) contains nearly 75% oil phase yet imparts a nice sensory and enhanced stability profile. The high oil phase allows for the utmost formulation flexibility when working with pigments and UV-filters. BENTONE® LUXE XO also improves the suspension properties as well as giving an even application on skin.
63.38
Benefits in sun care In sun care, both BENTONE GEL® and BENTONE® LUXE products deliver enhanced sun protection and water resistance performance. When a sunscreen is applied to the skin, it will ideally create a uniform layer covering the skin surface. Many emulsions, however, begin to pool in skin valleys after application, leaving an uneven film on the skin surface.
This effect can be eliminated by the use
of BENTONE® hectorite clay products. Before application, the hectorite platelets are in a three-dimensional gel network structure, thus creating a high viscosity medium. During the rub-on phase, the platelets orientate in the direction of flow, causing a decrease in viscosity for ease of application. On removal of shear, the reformation of the
gel creates a uniform layer of protection on the skin surface. Figure 3 shows an example of the Hybrid Sun Lotion (S-2015-02). With the addition of BENTONE® LUXE XO, the in vitro SPF increases from SPF 39 without hectorite to SPF 63 with hectorite.
Conclusion Pure hectorite clay is a 100% natural ingredient according to ISO 16128 and complies with the COSMOS standard. Due to its inert, inorganic nature, it is without doubt a great alternative to synthetic polymers, which may be classified as liquid microplastics that are harmful to the environment. A slight organic modification allows it to transform the benefits into the oil phase yet maintaining an incredibly high natural profile.
39.05
PC
Hybrid sun lotion no clay
Hybrid sun lotion with BENTONE LUXE XO
Figure 3: Enhancement of the in vitro SPF upon the addition of BENTONE® LUXE XO
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Elementis 469 Old Trenton Road East Windsor NJ 08512 USA Tel: +1 609 443 2500 Fax: +1 609 443 2422
November 2021 PERSONAL CARE
Mean in vitro SPF
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