42 HAIR STYLING
need a bigger focus and it is a category that has considerable scope to expand. Moreover, aligning with the scalp care trend, more brands are stating that the scalp is an extension of facial skin. In China, over 90% of haircare product
users agree that scalp care can improve their hair health or that hair care is as important as skin care. Overall, in the 12 months up to February 2021, according to a study by KuRunData and Mintel of 2,993 internet users aged 18-49 who have used haircare products in the last six months, some 32% of haircare, hair styling and hair colorant product innovations featured the word ‘scalp’ on the pack – an increase from 24% five years prior. Cyclodextrin is a good example of hair and
scalp efficiency blurring the line with skin care. This molecule is a natural sebum absorber, as efficient as kaolin and more effective than talc, and it is an ultrafine powder with very high sebum absorption. Scalp-safe and 100% plant-based, cyclodextrin has a selective absorption capacity that favours sebum over water so that high-performance dry shampoos will not dehydrate skin or hair. When we talk about scalp care, one
annoying condition is dandruff. If you are looking for anti-dandruff innovations or simply for zinc pyrithione alternatives, two 100% plant-based solutions exist, both providing anti-dandruff benefits and being safe for the scalp. Two innovations that can inhibit the growth
of Malassezia furfur at pH 5 are 100% plant- based bio-succinic acid and isosorbide. M. furfur is an opportunistic pathogen. It eats fats and oils from the natural sebum on the scalp in order to make itself grow, breaking this down into by-products. It grows optimally in an environment when the pH is between 4 and 8, which is where dandruff starts.
Concentration %
Bio-succinic acid (0.45%) Isosorbide (1%)
Inoculum
3.25E 1.50E
+0.4 +0.4
Figure 2: Bolero pictures of 5% hydroxypropyl starch (left) & water placebo over 8 hours Not heated Heat stress Protected by hydroxypropyl starch at 5% Protein Oxidation
Hydroxypropyl starch at 5% (in water) after 8 hours
Water Placebo after 8 hours
Figure 3: Oxi-proteome cuticle view (lateral): non-heated (left), heat stress (centre) & protected by 5% hydroxypropyl starch (right)
The effect of bio-succinic acid and
isosorbide were measured during an in vitro challenge test according to NF/EN/ISO 11930 conditions. Their growth was measured at different incubation times and expressed in colony-forming units/ml (Figure 4). These ingredients can be used on scalp conditions,
24 hours
7.00E 0.00E
+0.1 +0.0 7 days
1.00E 0.00E
+0.1 +0.0 14 days
0.00E 0.00E
+0.0 +0.0
Figure 4: Effect of biosuccinic acid & isosorbide on Malassezia furfur strain growth at pH=5 Note: In vitro micro challenge under NF/EN/ISO 11930 conditions
either to reduce the excess of sebum or to soothe scalp sensitivity by providing moisturising properties. They are ideal for both types of dandruff: ■ Oily scalp-related dandruff, which occurs when oily and yellow flakes or scales form on the scalp and stick to the head and hair. Bio-succinic acid is the perfect match here ■ Dry scalp-related dandruff occurs when dry, white and loose flakes or scales form on the scalp and fall from the head and hair. Isosorbide is one solution for this Consumers want visible and fast results when
it comes to hair care. They want to feel the benefit when applying their product, when combing their wet hair and see an immediate change after drying once. For this as well, the plant-based ingredients market can provide solutions.
Xylitol Consumers equate the sensations they experience when applying a product with its activity and efficiency. The perception of a fresh effect on the scalp or the foam when washing anything is a proof of efficacy in the eyes of consumers. In hair care, consumers see the foaming action, thickness and colour of shampoo with its cleaning power, even though these characteristics are not actually related. Derived from corn and wheat starch, xylitol
With Without Figure 5: Foaming effectiveness with (left) & without (right) 5% xylitol in self-foaming pump system PERSONAL CARE November 2021
is a very versatile moisturising ingredient perfect for skin care and oral care but also hair care. When tested with coco-glucoside, sodium laureth sulfate and many others, it will boost the foam. Tested with a Ross-Miles test and in a self-foaming pump system, xylitol is able
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