HAIR STYLING
Value of the elastic modulus after treatment *p-Value<0.0001
5.6 5.5 5.4 5.3 5.2 5.1 5
Placebo
Figure 6: Elastic modulus of xylitol vs placebo Note: Value of elastic modulus after treatment; * - p-value <0.0001
to boost the foam of a shampoo formulation making a richer and creamier foam (Figure 5). A richer foam makes the consumers feel
more of a cleaning power, and when they have clean hair, they expect healthy hair. Thanks to the use of xylitol in hair care, the benefits will be multiple. In addition to boosting the foam with a 100% plant-based ingredient, xylitol is able to make the hair fibre more resistant when used in a conditioner. A test was performed (Figure 6) using xylitol
in a leave-on formulation to measure the elastic modulus. (A higher elastic modulus indicates that the hair is healthier because it shows less deformation during the test and a higher difficulty to break the hair). Compared to a placebo, xylitol makes the hair fibre significantly more resistant.
Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate After applying a shampoo, let’s take a look back to the basics and the benefits of wet combing. The advantages of brushing hair are multiple; it keeps hair healthy and shiny which is a key driver of the hair care market, as mentioned in the introduction. It also stimulates the scalp and helps remove loose hair. Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate (Figure 7) is a humectant and texturiser that is well known for its oral care properties. This pure maltitol syrup is used in cosmetics for its multifunctional properties. In hair care, it offers detangling and ease for wet combing after a single application of shampoo.
* HO HO Xylitol HO OH O O HO OH Figure 7: Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate In this context, caramel colorant is a plant-
based option that allows formulators to create visually exquisite food-inspired cosmetics and also allows the possibility to temporarily dye hair with a copper and honey tone style (Figure 8). Adding 5% caramel induces a significant difference of coloration on bleached hair tresses with an increase of both the Δ a and Δ b values (spectrophotometric colour analysis.) For fully protected formulations with
optimum consumer appeal and a complete switch to natural solutions, formulators could try a synergistic composition of gluconic acid, caprylyl/capryl glucoside and Cymbopogon citratus leaf oil. This 100% plant-based preservative
A study was carried out using a Diastron
system where we measure the force required to slide a comb through hair tresses. The comb runs through hair tresses at constant speed and the study records the combing force as a function of the distance combed through the length of the tress. The lowest is the combing force, the highest is the conditioning property. Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate was shown to improve wet combing by more than 111% versus a placebo.
New options To come back to our introduction, in addition to healthy hair, fun is another key driver nowadays. In hair care, consumers can explore and try different cuts, colours and styles of hair
booster makes it possible to reduce the levels of listed ingredient, while providing excellent protection against bacteria, yeast and mould. Effective from pH 4 to 6, our patent-pending composition is also easy to use and water- soluble.
Summary Rich with plant-based expertise and know- how, Roquette Beauté offers high quality, versatile ingredients and multifunctional solutions providing at once high performance and an amazing sensorial experience. With a full optimisation of its raw materials, Roquette enhances all plant constituents, generating less than 0.5% waste and now provides 100% plant- based, high-quality ingredients for the hair care market.
HO O O OH OH OH HO
43
PC
Before treatment
1%
5%
10%
Figure 8: Visual evaluation of colour parameters after application of leave-on formulation with caramel on blonde hair tresses at 1%, 5% & 10% Note: Aspects of tresses after application & drying
www.personalcaremagazine.com November 2021 PERSONAL CARE
Mpa
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