LIFESTYLE Oily products are more challenging to
produce on a large scale. Firstly, oils are much harder to clean out of manufacturing vessels than water-based products, as they are naturally water-repellent.26
Depending
on the product it could require harsher cleaning chemicals and more, hotter water to be used, which takes up more fuel and could defeat the purpose of not using water in the first place. Another consideration for solid
bars in particular is the heat required to produce them. Many bars require temperatures of 70°C or more, and cosmetic factory vessels are often heated and cooled using water jackets, which could potentially waste more water than would have been used in an aqueous product. Removing water also necessitates other
sacrifices during formulation. Water acts as the carrier for most rheology modifiers and without it, the possible textures for a product are more limited. Consumers want more than just a functional product. They want to enjoy the product they are using; at the moment, the experiences available with solid products are fairly limited compared to aqueous products. This leaves it up to formulators and ingredient manufacturers to rise to the challenge and create new, waterless experiences for consumers – and we do love a challenge! With all of this in mind, water consumption
is a global issue which needs to be addressed and there are many ways to tackle this in addition to waterless formulations. For example, foaming products are known to encourage longer rinsing times and so creating products with low foam, could have an effect on the water usage at home. However, even though non-foaming
products clean just as well as foaming ones, consumers tend to equate foaming qualities with the performance of the product; large open bubbles indicate an effective cleansing product and small, creamy bubbles indicate a soft, moisturising cleanse.27
and quality could be an extremely important factor in creating a product that encourages reducing water use.
Conclusion Whatever factors a brand prioritises, it is clear that the personal care industry faces many complex challenges. In making any decision, it is important for brands to be aware not only of the positive impact they could have, but also to know where there may be flaws and where they could further improve. Balancing product performance, consumer needs and expectations against environmental and sustainability considerations poses a significant challenge for formulators, but continual innovations in cosmetic ingredients and product formats provides exciting opportunities to create extraordinary formulations with excellent eco- credentials.
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Figure 3: Formulations containing synthetic fluorphlogopite
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November 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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