ANTI-POLLUTION
Addressing ROS naturally in the scalp
James. V Gruber, Ezgi Todurge – BotanicalsPlus, US
BotanicalsPlus has developed a scientifically proven technology called Sc-Help™ Defense (INCI: Water (and) Propanediol (and) Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract (and) Opuntia Ficus-Indica Fruit Extract (and) Lycium Chinese Fruit Extract (and) Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Extract). This specifically addresses three prominent environmental threats: UVB, pollution and high-energy visible (HEV) light, which is more commonly known as blue light. Studies have proven these major threats to create excessive reactive oxygen species (ROS) in dermal papillae (DP) cells. The new Sc-Help Defense complex,
now referred to as the antioxidant complex, consists of potent antioxidants derived from sustainably sourced olive fruit (upcycled), prickly pear (upcycled), goji berry and Mediterranean oranges with high polyphenol content (upcycled). It has been shown in vitro to be very effective at reducing the formation of ROS due to environmental threats. The complex has also been compared against two well-known antioxidants: trolox and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT).
Background In 2017, Lemasters and colleagues published a paper in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology that discussed the growth of hair in the human scalp.1
In this paper,
they noted that the formation of new hair fibres in the anagen phase creates an inordinate amount of ROS in the regions of new hair growth. The authors described this area of actively growing hair and high ROS as the ‘ring of fire’ (Figure 1). Without our innate antioxidant
defences, we would quickly be overcome by the Earth’s oxygen- rich environment. Our planet is constantly trying to oxidise us and, as global warming escalates, environmental aggressors further stress our bodies’ defences against these oxidative forces of nature. Principal among these aggressors
creates endogenous ROS by the mere process of trying to grow new hair. It has been reported that the ability of
the follicle to create ROS is important. ROS created in the hair follicle, and particularly within the ‘ring of fire’, while being oxidatively damaging, can also act as signalling molecules to the growing DP and follicle. While the ring of fire is a metabolically important area of hair growth, it gains its name from the fact that the excess ROS produced are also damaging to the growing hair and surrounding skin. This damage further supplements the ROS damage created by the aforementioned external threats.2,3 The combination of exogenous (external)
and endogenous (internal) ROS threats can hinder the ability of the hair follicle, and more importantly, the DP cells, from doing their job and creating new hair. This paper will discuss a new, potent, antioxidant complex that is able to reduce the formation of ROS in DP cells brought on by external exposure to UVB, particulate pollution and HEV light.
ABSTRACT
Dermal papillae cells are important hair growth cells that reside at the base of every hair follicle. They are responsible for the cyclical growth of scalp hair, managing the transformation of hair from the resting stage (catagen) to the active growth stage (anagen). The growth of human scalp hair is a complex, high-energy process, which creates a zone of excessive reactive oxygen species called the ‘ring of fire’. As the scalp continues to remain a key area of focus by hair care brands, innovative solutions that can help control the formation of follicle- damaging ROS species—driven primarily by environmental threats—are highly sought after.
Epidermis Dermis
Sebaceous gland
Hair root Hair shaft
Methods The antioxidant complex is supplied as a mixture in water and natural 1,3-propanediol. Human DP cells were grown using follicle dermal papilla (FDP) media, supplemented with 4% FCS, 0.4% bovine pituitary extract, 1 ng/ml recombinant human basic fibroblast growth factor, and 5 μg/ml human recombinant insulin. The cells were cultured at 37±2°C and 5±1% CO2
. When enough cells had been grown,
Environmental aggressors
they were seeded into 96-well plates and grown overnight to allow the cells to adhere to the well plates. The cells were maintained in culture until they were confluent. A stock (10 mM) solution of
Ring of Fire Hair bulb Hair follicle wall
are UV, HEV light from the Sun and air pollution, in the form of oxidative particles created by industry. The skin and follicle structures are constantly under attack by these external forces that create ROS in our bodies and skin. Within the follicle, these problems can become particularly apparent as the scalp
www.personalcaremagazine.com Papilla Figure 1: The ‘ring of fire’
dichlorodihydrofluoresccein diacetate (CDF-DA) was prepared in DMSO and then diluted in FDP media to a final concentration of 20 μM. The cells were then treated with the dye mixture for 30 minutes. At the end of this incubation period, the cells were rinsed once with PBS. Urban dust was obtained from
Sigma Chemicals (Standard Reference
Material 1649b) and prepared at 10 mg/ ml in un-supplemented FDP media. The urban dust solution was then sonicated for
ten minutes on ice. This stock solution was then diluted to 1 mg/ml with media. After loading the dermal papilla with
DCF-DA, the cells were treated with the test materials prepared in 100 μl of un-
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