SKIN CARE
Adverse reactions to topical vitamin C Topical vitamin C is largely safe to use on a daily basis for long durations. It can safely be used in conjunction with other common topical anti- ageing agents, such as sunscreens, tretinoin, other antioxidants and α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid.
Minor adverse reactions include a yellowish
discoloration of the skin (via the formation of erythrulose, Figure 4), hypopigmented hair and staining of clothes, which occur due to oxidative changes in vitamin C. Once applied, vitamin C cannot be fully washed or wiped off the skin. Rarely, stinging, erythema and dryness are observed. These can easily be treated using a moisturiser. Care must be taken while applying vitamin C around the eyes.1,2 Erythrulose is an ingredient in sunless tan
products, and is often included alongside the more common dihydroxyacetone (DHA). These ingredients react with proteins in the dead stratum corneum layer to produce brown compounds called melanoidins that stay on the skin until the dead cells come off, after around a week. The reaction is a Maillard reaction, like the reactions that happen when meat and baked goods turn brown with heat. Urticaria and erythema multiforme, following
the use of topical vitamin C, have been documented. The toxic doses that lead to cellular apoptosis under laboratory conditions are 100- 200 times the daily recommended dose, giving vitamin C a very high safety profile.1
Physiology of vitamin C in skin Vitamin C is a simple, low-molecular-weight carbohydrate that is essential for the body as a water-soluble vitamin.17
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both oxidised and reduced forms in the body: L-dehydroascorbic and L-ascorbic acid. With blood circulation to all tissues and
organs, plasma ascorbate acid concentrations can reach up to 1–15 mg/ml with a vitamin
Ascorbic acid OH H HO O O HO OH H O O
23
HO
OH
HO
OH Dehydroascorbic acid H2 O
O HO OH
2COOH H HO O O HO Erythrulose Figure 4: Formation of erythrulose from ascorbic acid
C-rich diet, and the superfluous vitamin can be excreted by the kidneys.18
There are large
differences in the levels of vitamin C in various organs and in different layers of the skin. It is 425% higher in the epidermis than in the dermis, and there is a concentration gradient in the epidermal keratinocytes.19 There are two transport mechanisms for
As an antioxidant, it has
ascorbic acid in the skin, which depend on sodium-ascorbate cotransporters (SVCTs), specific sodium-dependent vitamin C transporters that exist in various tissues and organs. Their differing mechanisms may be related to plasma concentrations of ascorbic acid or stress conditions.20
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that vitamin C transport characteristics in the skin may be associated with skin healing, antioxidation, and antitumor effects. SVCT1 is primarily responsible for
the transport of epidermal vitamin C to keratinocytes, while SVCT2 in dermal cells (such as fibroblasts) diffuses it from the plasma into the epidermis.21
Figure 5 shows the mechanism
of action of both. If SVCT2 is inside the fibroblasts, it can + but is in a low-affinity state. On
bind to Mg2
the other hand, when SVCT2 is exposed on the fibroblast membrane surface, it can bind to both Mg2
+ and Ca2 + in high concentrations of sodium solution. It then becomes a high-affinity HO 2,3-Diketogulonic acid
HO OH
O
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www.personalcaremagazine.com November 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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