ANTI-POLLUTION
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
cleansing smearing
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Star ingredients Emollients
Cetiol Ultimate (INCI: Undecane (and) Tridecane)
Cetiol Sensoft (INCI: Propylheptyl Caprylate))
39
Aqua Run 1 Run 2 Figure 4: Emollients tested for cleansing efficacy compared to water
the best performance in tests for cleansing, including Undecane (and) Tridecane at 10.0%, and Propylheptyl Caprylate at 48.3%. To make it more transparent, we also used the polar oils Eutanol® G (INCI: Octyldodecanol) and Myritol® 331 (INCI: Cocoglycerides). The cleansing effect of Soothing Cleansing
Transformer was also demonstrated in tests against a benchmark product. It achieved 86% cleansing efficacy as against 70% for the benchmark and 55% for water. It also produced better results for smearing behaviour, which was reduced to 32%, compared to 62% for the benchmark and 88% for water.
Conclusion Pollution is multi-factorial and includes a large number of different things, such as PM, gases, heat and UV-radiation. There is no ‘one size fits all’ test to assess all of pollution’s effects on the skin. BASF carried out a systematic analysis that
targeted four mechanisms: anti-adhesion, removability, anti-penetration and cleansing. Ingredients exhibiting the best performance were identified and used to develop complete formulations, and we then demonstrated their substantial effects in these four categories. No single ingredient leads to anti-pollution
efficacy. Rather, the formulation needs to be tailor-made to the specific application and the composition of all of the components of the final formulation need to be taken into account. Nonetheless, systematic studies can be used to develop formulations which help safeguard the skin against the effects caused by PM
TABLE 1: FORMULATION: NATURECARE ANTI-POLLUTION MATRIX Phase
Ingredients
A Water, demin. Rheocare XGN Edela B Powder
B C
Emulade PL 68/50 Cetiol Ultimate*
D Euxyl PE (Schülke)lglycerin Sensive SC 50 (Schülke) Covi-ox T 90 EU C
PatcH2 O A00297
Perfume 'Always the Sun' (Symrise)
E Citric Acid (10% solution) INCI Aqua Xanthan Gum Tetrasodium EDTA
Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol Undecane, Tridecane
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin Ethylhexylglycerin Tocopherol
Aqua, Glycerin, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Trehalose, Urea, Serine, Pentylene Glycol, Algin, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pullulan, Disodium hosphate, Potassium Phosphate
Parfum Citric Acid
Properties pH value: (23°C): 6.5 Viscosity (Brookfield; RVF; spindle TE, Helipath; 4 rpm; 23°C): 37500mPa·s
TABLE 2: FORMULATION: ‘DON’T LET THE DIRT IN’ SHIELDING SKIN CREAM Phase A
Ingredients
Eumulgin SG Cetiol C 5C Cetiol CC Cetiol RLF Cetiol LC Lanette O
B PC
References 1. WHO.
https://www.who.int/health-topics/air- pollution#tab=tab_2r pollution
2. Dijkhoff, IM, Drasler B, Karakocak BB et al. Impact of airborne particulate matter on skin: A systematic review from epidemiology to in vitro studies. Part. Fibre. Toxicol. 2010. 17;35.
https://doi.org/10.1186/s12989-020-00366-y
3. Schikowski T, Hüls A. Air pollution & skin ageing. Curr. Envir. Health Rpt. 2020. 7;58–64.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s40572-020-00262-9
4. Mancebo, SE, Wang SQ. Recognizing the impact of ambient air pollution on skin health. JEADV. 2015. 29, 2326–2332
www.personalcaremagazine.com E
Rheocare XGN Tinovis GTC UP Water, demin.
C Glycerin Water, demin.
Dulcemin PW BIO LS 9903 Water, demin.
Euxyl PE 9010 (Schülke) Sensiva SC 50 (Schülke) Edeta B Powder
Perfume 'Always the Sun' (Symrise)
F
Potassium Hydroxide (20% solution)
INCI
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Cetearyl Alcohol Xanthan Gum
Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer Aqua
Glycerin Aqua
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Protein Aqua
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin Ethylhexylglycerin Tetrasodium EDTA
Parfum Potassium Hydroxide
Properties pH value: (23°C): 6.5 Viscosity (Brookfield; RVF; spindle TE, Helipath; 4 rpm; 23°C): 150000mPa·s
November 2021 PERSONAL CARE
% w/w 86.92 2.00 0.20 1.00 2.50 1.10
0.40 0.50
5.00 0.20
Cetiol Ultimate
Cegesoft PS6
Untreated
% w/w 0.05 2.50 1.50 1.50
2.00 3.00 2.00 3.33
33.00 3.00 43.32 0.25 2.00 1.00 1.00 0.05
0.50 q.s.
Myritol PGDC Eutanol G Cetiol Sensoft Cegesoft PS6 Cetiol LC Aqua Myritol 331 Cetiol Ultimate Cetiol OE Cetiol CC Cetiol C5 Cetiol B Aqua
Myritol PGDC Eutanol G Cetiol Sensoft Cegesoft PS6 Cetiol LC Aqua Myritol 331 Cetiol Ultimate Cetiol OE Cetiol CC Cetiol C5 Cetiol B Aqua
Smearing % better worse
cleansing efficacy % better
worse
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