MICROBIOME
Study 3: Respecting microbial balance in acne-prone skin Acne is the most common chronic inflammation of the skin, affecting 75-95% of teenagers, but it is now prevalent in more than 50% of adults too. This can be partially explained by acne-associated bacteria developing resistance to antibiotics, meaning that conventional treatments cease to be effective after a few years of use.10
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate + niacinamide + allantoin Additionally,
typical side effects (redness, dryness, irritation) resulting from their use are worse in adult acne sufferers than in teenagers. Cutibacterium acnes strains are one of the
factors considered to play a key role in the exacerbation of acne. However, treatments that reduce C. acnes populations can also harm beneficial skin bacteria and disrupt the delicate microbiome balance. Indeed, dysbiosis between different C. acnes strains is now associated with acne development,11 rather than a hyperproliferation of these strains. There is a need for effective acne care
that avoids disruption of natural microbiota and minimises other unwanted side effects (such as skin redness and burning sensations) common to retinoid- and benzoyl peroxide- based conventional treatments. To address this, we have conducted a study using sodium ascorbyl phosphate (a stabilised form of vitamin C) in combination with niacinamide (vitamin B3) which is known for its skin barrier- strengthening properties, and allantoin. In this study, we found that this
combination of ingredients noticeably inhibited growth of an acne-associated C. acnes strain within two hours (Figure 3) and even outperformed 0.5% salicylic acid, which was tested in identical conditions. Our results suggest that a combination of sodium ascorbyl phosphate with niacinamide and allantoin could be an effective treatment for reducing abundance of pathogenic C. acnes strains. This would maximise the potential for improvement, while addressing a need for milder acne care treatments.
Microbiome-friendly beauty products – a precise balance Our study findings suggest that using cosmetic bioactives to modulate specific detrimental and beneficial skin bacteria can help to promote a healthy skin microbiome and, therefore, a healthy skin appearance. However, beauty and skin care products can also contain ingredients and antimicrobial preservatives, which may negatively impact the delicate balance or diversity of the cutaneous microbiota. In view of the growing body of scientific
evidence pointing to a link between microbiota imbalances (dysbiosis) and skin and scalp concerns, such as acne, atopic dermatitis (eczema), dry skin and dandruff,8,9 it is important to make sure that any beneficial modulatory effect is not outweighed by a disruptive effect on the overall balance of skin microbiota. In other words, cosmetic ingredients and products need to respect certain microbial ratios and should not behave
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8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
0 0 0.5 1 Tme(hours)
Figure 3: Time-kill study using sodium ascorbyl phosphate 50 (3%) in combination with niacinamide (3%) & allantoin (0.5%) on C. acnes cultivated under anaerobic condition
in the same way as anti-microbial substances. MyMicrobiome, an independent institute
that tests products and individual ingredients for their impact on the skin’s microbiome, has developed a standardised test that creates clear, digital results in vitro, referring to the latest scientific findings. By simulating product use on the human body, it also evaluates a product’s impact both on the skin’s surface and in the deeper skin layers. Taking account of the different sets
of microbes which thrive at each specific skin site, the MyMicrobiome test assesses the extent to which products influence microbiome diversity, healthy microbial balance, and microbial growth or vitality. Products and ingredients that pass these tests can be classified as microbiome-friendly and receive a ‘Microbiome-friendly’ label. This is a helpful way for personal care manufacturers to reassure end consumers who are looking for products that respect the balance, diversity, and vitality of their skin microbiome. In parallel to the first two studies discussed
above, Epilobium Fleischeri and Saccharide Isomerate, have both been tested in line with the MyMicrobiome standard and both have received the ‘Microbiome-friendly’ label. To support formulators in developing products that minimise their impact on the skin microbiome’s natural balance, we have also submitted other ingredients for testing, including our 1-3 propanediol, niacinamide, and several hyaluronic acid grades. These too have been certified ‘Microbiome-friendly’. Additionally, we have incorporated these
ingredients in different Microbiome friendly- certified, ready-to-use formulations, such as shampoos, serums and day creams. As a result, manufacturers can begin meeting the demand for more microbiome-friendly products now. As our activities show, the skin microbiome
offers real potential for innovation in skin care if we respect its balance. DSM remains committed to staying at the forefront of
understanding about this topic, by leading the way with new research and developing novel solutions.
References 1. Sanford JA, Gallo RL. Functions of the skin microbiota in health and disease. Seminars in Immunology. 2013;25(5):370-7.
2.. Belkaid Y, Segre JA. Dialogue between skin microbiota & immunity. Science (New York, NY). 2014;346(6212):954-9.
3. Lambers H, Piessens S, Bloem A, Pronk H, Finkel P. Natural skin surface pH is on average below 5, which is beneficial for its resident flora. Int. J. Cos. Sci. 2006;28(5):359-70.
4. Elias PM. Stratum corneum acidification: How & why? Experimental Dermatology. 2015;24(3):179-80
5. Findley K, Oh J, Yang J, Conlan S, Deming C, Meyer JA et al. Topographic diversity of fungal & bacterial communities in human skin. Nature. 2013;498(7454):367-70.
6. Morton, JT et al. Establishing microbial composition measurement standards with reference frames. Nat. Commun. 2019. 10(1): p. 2719
7. Sfriso R, Claypool J. Microbial reference frames reveal distinct shifts in the skin microbiota after cleansing, Microorganisms. 2020 Nov; 8 (11)
8. Sfriso R et al. Revealing the secret life of skin – with the microbiome you never walk alone, Int J Cosmet Sci. 2020. Apr;42(2):116-126.
9. Byrd A et al. The human skin microbiome. Nat. Rev. Microbiol. 16(3):143-155 (2018)
10. Saxena R et al. Comparison of healthy and dandruff scalp microbiome reveals the role of commensals in scalp health. Front. Cell. Infect. Microbiol. 8:346. (2018)
11. Walsh, TR, Efthimiou J, Dréno B. Systematic review of antibiotic resistance in acne: an increasing topical and oral threat. The Lancet Infectious Diseases. 16, e23-e33 (2016).
12. Dréno, B et al. The skin microbiome: A new actor in inflammatory acne. Am. J. Clin. Dermatol. 21, 18-24 (2020).
November 2021 PERSONAL CARE PC 1.5 2 2.5
■ 3% + 3% + 0.5% ■ Culture medium ■ Phenonip 0.5%
3.6 log reduction
83
C.acnes concentration Log CFU/m
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