ANTI-POLLUTION
Claim support for anti-pollution cosmetics
Dr Andrew Warmington – Editor, Personal Care Global
Air pollution, its effects on the skin, the products being made to address this and the claims their producers can make are all major subjects and are in constant flux, noted Stephan Bielfeldt, director of science and innovation at Proderm in a recent webinar. In fact, the WHO published new sharpened air quality guidelines on the day before the webinar took place. There has been a visible ‘corona effect’ during the COVID-19 lockdown and the consequent reduction in the burning of fuels in industry and transport. Mean nitrogen dioxide levels in Madrid, Milan and Rome, for example, fell by about 45% from 2019 to April 2020; in Paris, it was 54%. This, however, is a short- term and extraordinary effect, Bielfeldt said. Clearly pollution will return; the question is by how much. The major components of air pollution are:
■ Toxic gases: sulfur dioxide, nitrogen oxides (NOx), volatile organic compounds (VOCs) & photochemically derived ozone ■ Particulate matter (PM), mainly of <2.5 µm diameter that can reach the alveoli of the lungs. PM is also a carrier of organic compounds that can generate reactive oxygen species (ROS), as well as metals, notably copper, that catalyse the oxidation of lipids and proteins in exposed tissues. ■ Indoor pollutants, such as smoke from indoor combustion of coal, wood and petrol, plus cigarette smoke, both of which generate toxic gases and PM The main hazards to skin from air pollution
comes from two sources: ROS, notably superoxide (O2
singlet oxygen (1 (H2
O2
), hydroxyl (OH), ozone (O3 O2
), which form free radicals that can
interact with many molecules in the human body; and particles loaded with VOCs and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs).
How can anti-pollution claims be supported? The WHO focuses on the effects of air pollution by inhalation of PM and other pollutants for good reasons: the major acute intoxication we suffer comes via the lungs and the skin barrier strongly limits such effects. However, Bielfeldt noted, environmental pollution does contribute to acute intoxication and pollution- derived oxidation of skin proteins, skin lipids and other functional skin molecules. In fact, it
www.personalcaremagazine.com ) ) and hydrogen peroxide Water + cigarette smoke ■ Water (control) ■
1.20 1.00
0.80 0.60 0.40 0.20 0.00 -0.20
1.20 1.00
1 2 3 4 UV irradiation time (min)
Figure 1: Effects of H1 on free radical formation Water + cigarette smoke ■ Water (control) ■
1.20 1.00
0.80 0.60 0.40 0.20 0.00 -0.20
5 6
0.80 0.60 0.40 0.20 0.00 -0.20
H1 + cigarette smoke ■ H1 ■ 1 2 3 4 UV irradiation time (min) 5 6
69
Tocopherol + cigarette smoke ■ Tocopherol ■
1.20 1.00
1 2 3 4 UV irradiation time (min) Figure 2: Effects of tocopherol on free radical formation Water + cigarette smoke ■ Water (control) ■
1.20 1.00
0.80 0.60 0.40 0.20 0.00 -0.20
1.20 1.00
1 2 3 4 UV irradiation time (min) Figure 3: Effects of EDTA (a) on free radical formation vs. control (b)
is the second most important factor in extrinsic skin ageing after sunlight. This includes lipid peroxidation of sebum and skin, leading to the impairment of the skin barrier; the activation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), leading to collagen cleavage; and the destruction of skin antioxidants, such as vitamin C, gluthathione and carotenoids.
The result of all this is premature skin
ageing via the formation of wrinkles and pigmented spots. To address this challenge, the cosmetics
industry has come up with several efficacy concepts for anti-pollution cosmetics, notably: ■ Specific skin cleansers to thoroughly remove liquid pollutants, pollutants dissolved in the hydro-lipid film on the skin, and PM
November 2021 PERSONAL CARE 5 6
0.80 0.60 0.40 0.20 0.00 -0.20
EDTA ■ EDTA + cigarette smoke ■ 5 6
0.80 0.60 0.40 0.20 0.00 -0.20
1
2
3
4 UV irradiation time (min)
5
6
1
2
3
4 UV irradiation time (min)
5
6
Rel. amount of free radicals
Rel. amount of free radicals
Rel. amount of free radicals
Rel. amount of free radicals
Rel. amount of free radicals
Rel. amount of free radicals
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