10 NEWS From brewery waste to cosmetics
According to a new publication by researchers from Italian company Recusol and the Universities of Camerino and Bologna, waste from the production of craft beers “can be an interesting source of phenols for the preparation of skin anti-ageing”. The researchers took extracts
from starting materials for beer production (malts, hops, and yeast), intermediate products and the final waste products from multiple craft beers, and then evaluated their total phenol content and antioxidant activity Total phenol content, as measured
by the Folin Ciocalteau Assay, varied with the specific product. The highest values, 93-155 mg GAE/g, were found in starting hops, intermediate ones were found in starting malt and
starting yeast, and the lowest values were found in wort. Total phenol content in the final beers depended on the phenols extracted from the different ingredients. The method used to evaluate
antioxidant activity strongly influenced the results. In general, though, the results reflected the trend observed for the total phenol content: “that beers are progressively enriched by phenols originating from all the starting ingredients, and that spent products still possess non- negligible antioxidant activity”. Interestingly, the authors added,
waste yeast frequently showed higher values than did starting material, possibly because yeast is able to absorb phenols from the beer during brewing.
Wood waste turned into fine fragrance
Spain’s Eurofragance introduced L’Âme du Bois (the soul of wood) at Beautyworld Middle East in Dubai in early October. This is targeted at top end products in fine fragrances, personal care and home care. Eurofragance said that this
is a significant moment in three respects. Firstly, L’Âme du Bois fills a gap in the woody notes olfactive family, “by providing a high impact composition that harmonises with other ingredients in the fragrance formula and highlights their
individual characteristics”. It also has a genderless olfactive profile and is made from upcycled wood waste. “L’Âme du Bois is avant-garde in
terms of its conception, but, above all, for what it brings to fragrance creation’” claimed Henry van den Heuvel, global creative director and senior perfumer. “It redefines woody notes in a manner befitting our time. L’Âme du Bois is inclusive and all-embracing of other accords and olfactive notes.”
Preliminary in vitro assays
in keratinocyte HaCaT cells were carried out to assess the potential bioactivity of spent extracts. Hop and yeast extracts showed the ability to improve the
mitochondrial activity and prevent oxidative stress in HaCaT cells, two important features in skin ageing. Cosmetics 2021, 8(4),
96;
https://doi.org/10.3390/ cosmetics8040096
Roelmi launches probiotic- derived skin care ingredient
Roelmi HPC, a specialist in probiotics, has taken its first step into the personal care market with a skin care active called EquiBiotics LRh. This is a probiotic-derived ingredient obtained by the tyndallisation process of L. rhamnosus LRH020, which is selected for its strain- specific activity focused on the protection from skin pathogens and the modulation of the immune response. The company said that
EquiBiotics LRh “demonstrates high performing efficacy towards multifactorial aggressive agents, such as UV rays and chemical agents”, and also helps to prevent pathogen colonisation. It can thus strengthen the skin barrier and its natural defences, indirectly offering such secondary benefits as moisturisation, skin elasticity and wrinkle reduction.
Skin bioactive from phytoplankton
Microalga Solutions (MAS) has launched Synbiötik Phycoskin. This is described as a bioactive, multifunctional ingredient based on biofilms called phytoplankton holobionts. These are found in the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea, and are sourced via a combination of bioengineering and green lab- grown systems.
PERSONAL CARE November 2021 Synbiötik Phycoskin, the
company says, “cooperates with the skin’s microbiota to achieve a perfect synbiotic combination”. It combats the effects of dysbiosis, an imbalance of the skin microbiota caused by stress, overexposure to UV rays and pollution, such as an increased pH level and overproduction of sebum.
The product provides
oligosaccharides and functional molecule, such as vitamins, protein, and antioxidants. The former nourish microbiota, promoting the growth of beneficial bacteria and preventing the proliferation of pathogenic bacteria, while the latter help to reduce sebum and skin pH and protect against dehydration.
Synbiötik Phycoskin is supplied
as a encapsulated ingredient and is easy to combine in serum and creams in the cold phase at the end of the manufacture process, MAS added.
www.personalcaremagazine.com In tyndallisation technology,
strains are inactivated by subjecting them to a gentle-heat treatment, leaving them unable to metabolise and reproduce. Because of their prebiotic effect, tyndallised probiotics become nourishment and metabolic support for resident microbiota growth, according to Roelmi.
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