24 SKIN CARE
state and binds to vitamin C, which can be transported into the cell after binding to SVCT1 on the membrane of keratinocytes. Then, vitamin C and Na+ are reversed on the cell membrane at a 1:2 ratio and discretely distributed in epidermal keratinocytes.22 The expression of SVCT1 mRNA in mouse skin
under UVB irradiation shows time- and dose- dependent effects, whereas the SVCT2 mRNA levels do not change significantly. This seems to explain why the antioxidant capacity of the epidermis is greater than that of the dermis.23
Outlook As vitamin C is hydrophilic, there is a marked interest in finding methods of efficient trans-epidermal delivery of the stable active compound. If antioxidants could be delivered in high concentration through the stratum corneum barrier, then a dermal reservoir of protective antioxidant could be increased and thus photoprotection would be enhanced.5 As stated earlier, the use of stable lipophilic
esterified derivatives of vitamin C is being explored for the purpose.5,8,10-13
Extensive
research is also under way to investigate microspheres, nanoparticles and multi-layered microemulsions for graded topical delivery. Trials have been performed with vitamins C and E together in multi-layered emulsions.6 Both electroporation and iontophoresis have been used to enhance penetration of vitamin C into the dermis.11,14,15
Applying vitamin C to the
treated skin surface after microdermabrasion and CO2
or Er-Yag resurfacing increases its
trans-epidermal penetration twenty-fold.2,6 Vitamin C is also a good priming agent and a post-operative agent for the prevention of erythema following laser resurfacing. Smokers have been found to have low
vitamin C levels in the dermis, akin to UV- damaged skin. Smoking-related skin ageing is another area where the efficacy of vitamin C is being explored. Another very useful application may be striae, where a study has shown that daily application of vitamin C combined with 20% glycolic acid over three months can significantly improve striae.9 In summary, vitamin C is a naturally
occurring active with multiple desirable effects. With an excellent safety profile, it finds increasing use in photoageing, hyperpigmentation, tissue inflammation and promotion of tissue healing. Ongoing research has been directed toward improving its delivery into the dermis for stimulating collagen production and scavenging free radicals. Vitamin C thus holds promise as a mainstream active in future of cosmetic science.
References 1. Talakoub L, Neuhaus IM, Yu SS. Cosmeceuticals, in Alam M, Gladstone HB, Tung RC (eds.). Cosmetic Dermatology. Vol. 1. Requisites in Dermatology. 1st ed. Gurgaon: Saunders Elsevier; 2009, 13–4
2. Traikovich SS. Use of topical ascorbic acid and its effects on photo-damaged skin topography. Arch. Otorhinol. Head Neck Surg. 1999; 125:1091–8
3. Farris PK. Cosmetical vitamins: Vitamin C, PERSONAL CARE November 2021 Figure 5: Vitamin transporters & their transport mechanism in skin
in Draelos ZD, Dover JS, Alam M (eds.). Cosmeceuticals. Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology. 2nd ed. New York: Saunders Elsevier; 2009, 51–6.
4.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitamin_C 5. Matsuda S, Shibayama H, Hisama M, Ohtsuki M, Iwaki M. Inhibitory effects of novel ascorbic derivative VCP-IS-2Na on melanogenesis. Chem. Pharm. Bull. 2008; 56:292–7
6. Burke KE. Interaction of vitamin C and E as better cosmeceuticals. Dermatol. Ther. 2007; 20:314–9
7. Draelos ZD. Skin lightening preparations& the hydroquinone controversy. Dermatol. Ther. 2007; 20:308–13
8. Inui S, Itami S. Perifollicular pigment is the first target for Ascorbyl2 phosphate6palmitate. J. Dermatol. 2007; 34:221–3
9. Pinnell SR, Yang HS, Omar M, Riviere NM, DeBuys HV, Walker LC. Topical L-ascorbic acid percutaneous absorption studies. Dermatol. Surg. 2001;27:137–42
10. Ito Y, Maeda T, Fukushima K, Sugioka N, Takada K. Permeation enhancement of ascorbic acid by self-dissolving micropile array tip through rat skin. Chem. Pharma. Bull. 2010; 58:458–63
PC
11. Lee S, Lee J, Choi YW. Skin permeation enhancement of ascorbyl palmitate by lipohydro gel formulation and electrical assistance. Bio. Pharma. Bull. 2007; 30:393–6
12. Rozman B, Zvonar A, Falson F, Gasperlin M. Temperature-sensitive micro emulsion gel: An effective topical delivery system of vitamins E, C. AAPS Pharma. Sci. Tech. 2009; 10:54–61.
13. Yoo J, Shanmugam S, Song CK, Kim DD, Choi HG, Yong CS, et al. Skin penetration and retension of LAA2PO4 using multilamellar vesicles. Arch. Pharma. Res. 2008; 31:1652–8. 14. Ebihara M, Akiyama M, Ohnishi Y, Tajima S,
Komata K, Mitsui Y. Iontophoresis promotes percutaneous absorption of L-ascorbic acid in rat skin. J. Dermat. Sci. 2003; 32:217–22.
15. Zhang L, Lerner S, Rustrum WV, Hofmann GA. Electroporation mediated topical delivery of vitamin C for cometic applications. Bioelectrochem. Bioenerg. 1999; 48:453–61.
16. Lee RW, Shen CS, Wang KH, Hu CH, Fang JY. Lasers and microdermabrasion enhance and control topical delivery of vitamin C. J Invest Dermatol. 2003; 121:1118–25.
17. Lykkesfeldt, J, Michels, AJ, Frei, B. Vitamin C. Adv. Nutr. 2014; 5, 16–18.
18. Richelle, M, Steiling, H, Castiel I. Bioavailability and skin bioefficacy of vitamin C and E in Tabor A, Blair RM (eds.), Nutritional Cosmetics (Boston: William Andrew Publishing), 115–138
19. Weber, SU, Thiele, JJ, Cross CE, Packer, L. Vitamin C, uric acid and glutathione gradients in murine stratum corneum and their susceptibility to ozone exposure. J. Invest. Dermatol. 1999; 113, 1128–1132
20. Butler, J.D, Bergsten, P, Welch, RW, Levine, M. Ascorbic acid accumulation in human skin fibroblasts. Am. Soc. Clin. Nutr. 2001; 54, 1144S–1146S
21. Steiling H, Longet K, Moodycliffe A, Mansourian R, Bertschy E, Smola H, et al. Sodium-dependent vitamin C transporter isoforms in skin: Distribution, kinetics and effect of UVB-induced oxidative stress. Free Radic. Biol. Med. 1991; 43, 752–762.
22. Savini I, Rossi A, Pierro C, Avigliano L, Catani, MV. SVCT1 and SVCT2: Key proteins for vitamin C uptake. Amino Acids. 2008. 34; 347–355
23. Kang JS, Kim HN, Jung DJ, Kim JE, Mun GH, Kim YS, et al. Regulation of UVB-induced IL-8 and MCP-1 production in skin keratinocytes by increasing vitamin C uptake via the redistribution of SVCT-1 from the cytosol to the membrane. J. Invest. Dermatol. 2007. 127, 698–706
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Epidermis (SVCT 1 SVCT2)
Dermis (SVCT2)
Fibroblast Intracellular Ca2+ SVCT 2 Fibroblasts Mg2+ Capillary vessel Ascorbic acid Vc Na+
Ascorbic acid Keratinocytes Keratinocyte Intracellular SVCT 1
Extracellular
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