6 COVER STORY: ELEMENTIS


Natural rheology modifiers to replace microplastics


Innovations of the past decades have led the cosmetics industry to boom and reach its pinnacle of performance. However, acclaimed and trusted technologies, which are often synthetic based ingredients, are under scrutiny from NGOs and regulators, as well as consumers, who are more demanding and savvier than ever. Mobile apps like Codecheck, EWG and


ToxFox offer consumers the opportunity and transparency to access product information at their fingertips,regardless of whether the product information is scientifically proven or sensationalised. Microplastics, as defined by ECHA, are solid


particles with external dimensions of >1 nm and <5 mm. Functional ingredients acting as rheology modifiers or film formers, however, are mostly used in their liquid form and are thus colloquially referred to as liquid microplastic. Even though they do not actually fit under the definition ‘microplastic’, they enter wastewater streams and potentially the food chain. Such synthetic polymers feature a poor


biodegradability and will persist in the environment over a very long period. Hence, it is not surprising that the market is responding to this paradigm shift by using more natural ingredients that are yet to meet a similar, consumer acceptable performance level. Elementis is the leader in hectorite technology, a truly remarkable mineral to overcome the challenges today’s formulators face when developing greener and cleaner cosmetics for both oil-in water (O/W)- and water-in-oil (W/O)-based.


Normal November 2021 PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS ● FORMULATION ●


MANUFACTURE GLOBAL


system by entrapping the internal phase droplets and minimising their ability to move. This not only impacts the flow behaviour of an emulsion positively, but also results in excellent suspension properties. The same internal structure prevents particles, such as pigments and UV filters, from sedimentation or agglomeration. Unlike other natural rheology modifiers,


hectorite derivatives impart an exceptional skin feel. When shear forces are applied, the clay platelets align and the formulation glides easily. After rubbing on, the internal structure recovers slowly, which results in a thixotropic flow behaviour.


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Hectorite - a natural alternative Hectorite clay, named after the originating area in a location near Hector, California, is an exceptionally pure, non-toxic, non- bioaccumulating, three-layer clay of the smectite family. It is sourced from the world’s purest hectorite mine, near Newberry Springs, California. Hectorite was created from volcanic ash by


hydrothermal means. The salt beds found in this area in combination with hot springs yielded a unique clay mineral structure that is different to other smectite clays. The extremely efficient swelling capability and network stability of hectorite is due to the uniform charge density distribution, as the clay was built from a quick volcanic eruption. The platelets are remarkably uniform with


respect to elemental composition, charge density distribution and charge location. The hydrothermal conditions created platelets with a thin shape, which results in a favourable edge-to-face surface ratio.


How hectorite works As is widely known, emulsions are formed by the dispersion of water droplets in oil or vice versa. Without any stabilisation, separation of the immiscible liquids will occur over time. The droplets will move freely and coalesce into bigger droplets, resulting in creaming or sedimentation, depending on the emulsification type. Through the introduction of hectorite to


Figure 1: At 40 °C the addition of 0.5% BENTONE HYDROCLAY™ 2100 will prevent internal structure loss


PERSONAL CARE November 2021


a formulation, a robust network is formed, which is often referred to as ‘house of cards’ or ‘honeycomb’ structure. It stabilises the emulsion


Benefits for O/W emulsions When formulating against the synthetic workhorses of skin care formulations, it is often believed that natural ingredients will provide an inferior performance profile when it comes to sensory, stability and cost-in-use performance. The 100% natural, COSMOS certified hectorite (commercially known as the BENTONE HYDROCLAY™ series), addresses these demands with excellent viscosity build and a stunning light texture, as well as highly desired stability benefits. For example, in the Mochi Skin Moisturiser


(F-2065-02), BENTONE HYDROCLAY™ 2100 helps stabilise an O/W emulsion and improves the heat resilience significantly. As shown in Figure 1, the formula without BENTONE HYDROCLAY™ 2100 loses most of its viscosity at 40°C. Because of this, it flows to the bottom when the flask is turned upside-down, while in presence of hectorite, the formulation maintains its structure and adheres to the top of the flask. In addition to this, BENTONE HYDROCLAY™


benefits from its versatile performance profile in difficult-to-thicken rinse-off systems. It thickens amino acid-based cleansing systems efficiently and supports the cleansing efficacy of a formulation. Hectorite accords high heat stability in


crystallised amino acid surfactant systems, which decreases the possibility of polyhydric alcohol and water separating from the system. In stability tests, the addition of BENTONE HYDROCLAY™ 2000 helped cleansers containing 40% sodium cocoyl glycinate to pass the +48°C test over a one- month period. In the presence of hectorite, systems with a lower dosage of amino acid surfactants endure the temperature challenge successfully, allowing for minimal usage of surfactants and reduction of sensitisation. Due to its inherently high cationic exchange


capacity, hectorite can hold an increased number of cations and release them onto the


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