34 HAIR STYLING
Figure 12: Tips of lock 2, treated with bleaching powder without additives
Figure 13: Lock 3, treated with bleaching powder with 1% Decovec
Measuring the ability of the powdered liposome to reduce traction resistance ■ Objective: Bleaching damages hair, resulting in hair that becomes more porous, brittle, loses traction resistance and elasticity.
■ Method: Hair previously bleached with either bleaching powder with no additives, or bleaching powder added with the powdered liposome, were stretched to their breaking point. Tensile strength and stretch were measured using a digital dynamometer and software that graphs and quantifies these parameters. The results obtained against untreated control hairwere compared. ■ Materials and equipment: Digital dynamometer A&L brand model AHS-1M (*); digital micrometer (Digimess); digital microscope (ESPA); Salondry (Philips) hair dryer; virgin hair; bleaching powder; the powdered liposome (powdered liposomes for bleaching powder); base shampoo 1. In a plastic container, prepare 10 grams of bleaching powder added with 1% powdered liposome, mixing 9.90 grams bleaching
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
Figure 14: End of lock 4, treated with powdered bleaching with 2% Decovec.
powder + 0.10g from the powdered liposome. 2. For this study, black virgin hair from a female person was selected, which had not undergone any previous bleaching or dying. The chosen hair was 15 cm long or more; and its diameter was between 0.055 mm and 0.06mm (this range was chosen since most of the hairs have diameters within these values). The diameter of the hairs was measured using a digital micrometer, one by one 3. The hairs were observed one by one under a digital microscope (not to be confused with the SEM) in order to eliminate those that have medium or severe injuries (this process of discarding is important because the injured hairs have less resistance and elasticity than normal hair). 4. Three locks of 55 hairs each, previously selected, are assembled. 5. Each lock contains the same number of hairs, of the same diameter. 6. Wash the three locks with base shampoo as follows: 7. Bleach the corresponding locks with their respective bleaching powders as follows: a. In a plastic container, mix 10 grams of
bleaching powder with 20 grams of 30-volume creamy oxygen water.
Figure 15: End of lock 4, treated with bleaching powder with 3% Decovec
b. Add 1 gram. of the bleaching powder
and hydrogen peroxide mixture to the corresponding lock to bleach, spread throughout the entire surface and leave to act for 45 minutes. c. Wash with plenty of warm water for one
minute d. Dry first with a towel and then with a hot
air dryer for one minute. 8. Let rest 48 hours in a closed container to homogenise the moisture of the locks. 9. 50 hairs are taken from each lock and the tensile strength and stretch of each are measured. Final values are averaged. Note: the initial length of the hair treated before the pulling effort was 10cm. The study was performed in triplicate and
the values of both studies are averaged to make the results tables and graphs.
■ Results: 1. The hairs treated with both bleaching agents decreased their tensile strength and increased their stretch before reaching the breaking point with respect to the untreated control hair. 2. Hair treated with bleaching powder without liposomes, decreased its resistance by 15.1%, while
Bleaching powder + 1% Decovec ■ Bleaching powder■ Control ■
0
2 Stretching (cm) Figure 16: Hair tensile strength graph expressed in grams applied force as a function of stretching from 10 cm initial length PERSONAL CARE November 2021
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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Traction effort (grs)
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