HAIR STYLING
Enhancing powdered hair bleaching products
Howard Epstein - EMD Performance Materials, US Victor P. Lo Riggio, Melisa Campoccia, José Luis D Eramo, Sebastián Lo Riggio - NanoVec, Argentina
The secret behind a brilliant hair colour transformation is the bleaching powder. Hair bleaching is a chemical dye technique that strips colour from hair. Chemical agents used during the hair bleaching process break down pigmentation through oxidation. Sections of the hair are hydrolysed and the protective lipid layer of the hair cuticle is destroyed. This results in a dry, brittle hair that is more porous. Hair strength and elasticity is diminished.With respect to dry hair dye treatments, the best results are obtained with optimally formulated powdered hair dye formulations.
Optimising powdered hair dye formulations EMD Performance Materials has launched a unique class of cationic encapsulated microsystems (CEMs) specially designed to address hair care needs. Marketed under the name Lipcuat™, this unique molecule contains encapsulated ingredients that are perfectly suited for a variety of formulations including shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. Decovec-1™ (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Phospholipids (and) Hydrolyzed Collagen (and) Dimethicone (And) Polyquaternium 16 (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and) Bisabolol (and) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) is a powdered version of the Lipcuat offering. Decovec-1 is a powdered additive for hair
bleaching formulations. It consists of millions of dehydrated liposomes suspended in a moisturising vegetable matrix. The liposome membrane is composed of purified soy lecithin phospholipids with a cationic polymer that has a high affinity for the colouring agent. Decovec-1 also contains collagen, dimethicone, alpha bisabolol and vitamin E, which contribute to a variety of antioxidant properties.
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Figure 1: Hair tresses evaluated for damage associated with bleaching (Tress 1 = untreated control) Decovec-1 (hereafter referred to as ‘the
powdered liposome’) is compatible with all types of bleaching powders. Liposomes are reconstituted when the bleaching powder is mixed with hydrogen peroxide. They help to protect the hair fibre during the discolouring process. They also provide greater moistening and lubricating action, additional strength, elasticity and lower porosity to the hair. This allows for a more secure, efficient and intense bleaching.
Efficacy studies Hair bleaching powders are formulated with alkalis in order to open the hair cuticle and allow the molecules to penetrate the cortex of the hair fibre. Bleaching powders contain oxidising agents, that in addition to destroying the melanin that gives hair colour, alters the structure of the keratin of hair causing damage to the cuticle and cortex. During this process, the disulfide bridges (-S-S-) are broken down
Figure 2: Scanning electron microscopy of hair from Strand 1 control (untreated) & detail of the cuticles.
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Figure 3: Scanning electron microscopy of hair from Strand 2 & detail of the cuticles
November 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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