MICROBIOME
The skin microbiome: Getting the balance right
Dr Riccardo Sfriso, Aline Hueber- DSM Nutritional Products
There is a fine line between modifying the skin microbiome’s composition to promote healthy-looking skin and disrupting its delicate balance in a potentially detrimental way. With consumer interest in microbiome-friendly skin and personal care products growing, DSM has been exploring new approaches to restoring and preserving the natural and individual balance of skin microbiota. Thanks to an innovative data analysis
technique, we have been able to go further in identifying and classifying skin microbiota composition. We have then used this information to investigate and visualise the modulatory effect two of our skin bioactives have on key microorganisms. Additionally, we have been exploring vitamin-based acne-care solutions and have also begun assessing personal care ingredients for microbiome-friendliness in line with a new, independent standard.
New potential for skin care In the cosmetics industry, the skin microbiome is increasingly thought to play a fundamental role in maintaining a healthy skin appearance. Most microorganisms living on our skin, defined as commensals or symbiotics, have been shown to protect against pathogens and
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to play an important role in modulating the host’s cutaneous innate and adaptive immune system.1,2 Skin-resident bacteria produce, among
other molecules, acidic metabolites. Together with the lactic acid present in our sweat and the free fatty acids produced when phospholipids undergo lipase-mediated hydrolysis during cornification, these
metabolites contribute to the low pH level of the surface of the skin. Resident commensal bacteria can cope with this acid mantle, but many pathogens cannot.3-4 Imbalances in skin microbiota composition
or dysbiosis (Figure x) are associated with several skin conditions. Some, such as eczema, acne, allergies and dandruff, are pathological, while others, including skin sensitivity, irritation and dryness, are non-pathological.8 Additionally, the use of specific products and actions such as skin cleansing can also cause shifts in the composition of the skin microbiota. Approaches that aim to preserve or restore the natural, individual balance of the skin microbiota therefore offer potential both for dermatologists and skin care applications.
Understanding skin microbiota composition Physiological characteristics (pH, temperature, sebum content and moisture), topography (the rough or smooth surface of corneocytes) and exogenous environmental factors (UV exposure, temperature and humidity) all influence microbial colonisation on the skin surface.5
As a result, skin microbiome
composition varies considerably depending on the body site. Facial skin is a particularly complex
Figure 1: Damaged skin barrier with dysbiosis
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environment comprising sebaceous areas (the forehead, nose and chin, also known as the T-zone) and dry areas (the cheeks). The precise make-up of skin microbiota at different facial sites has not yet been described, so we
November 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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