Volume 22 Issue 10
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CONTENTS
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Editor’s comment Cover story News
97 Event Preview: In-Cosmetics Formulation Summit
99 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES
16 Cosmetics regulatory update for the EU Martin Perry of ADS Laboratories looks in
depth at recent changes to the European Cosmetics Regulation
21 Vitamin C in skin care applications: An overview Because vitamin C is unstable and difficult to deliver into the dermis in the optimum dosage, research is being directed to finding stable compounds and newer methods of delivery, says Dr Cuross Bakhtiar
26 The next super material: Shells from algae Swedish Algae Factory’s new product had its origins in a journey the company founder made to the Antarctic
31 Enhancing powdered hair bleaching products Decovec is a powdered liposome that is proven to be effective in reducing and preventing damage caused to hair cuticles during the aggressive chemical process of discoloration
37 Designing new anti-pollution cosmetics BASF has been developing cosmetic concepts
that help reduce the negative effects of particulate matter on the skin, targeting the four mechanisms of anti-adhesion, removability, anti-penetration and cleansing
41 Natural hair care products with 100% plant-based ingredients Ophélie Bourgon introduces some of the hair care products of Roquette, based on hydroxypropyl starch, xylitol, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate and others
46 At the limits of the sense of smell Olfasense has developed standardised
methods for the determination of odour threshold values for a great variety of compounds
50 Efficacy testing & vegan ethics are compatible To be vegan, a product must not have been tested on animals, nor contain any ingredients derived from animals. MSL Solution Providers have been addressing this need with new testing materials
53 A journey to vegan testing in a family-owned Dr Sara Robb describes how Melbec Microbiology turned a personal commitment to veganism into a business proposition
56 Novel in-line rheology measurement technology Stream Sensing shows how electrical resistance rheometry measurements can accurately predict in-line rheological properties across a range of products
61 New hair care formulations for a busy lifestyle Water scarcity is making dry shampoos popular again. Evonik has developed Spherelix 10, a spherical hydrated silica, as a key ingredient that overcomes some of the disadvantages associated with them
65 Addressing ROS naturally in the scalp BotanicalsPlus has developed a technology
called Sc-Help Defense to addresses three prominent environmental threats of UVB, pollution and blue light
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69 Claim support for anti-pollution cosmetics Personal Care Global editor Dr Andrew
Warmington reports from a recent Proderm webinar on tests that confirmed the reliability of its in vivo cigarette smoke model
73 Formulating: The ultimate balancing act Lou Graydon introduces some of the key new
developments Aston Chemical will present at SCS Formulate
77 Fucoidan: A future in balancing skin microbiome Australian company Marinova discusses the natural benefits of high purity fucoidan extracts for topical use
81 The skin microbiome: Getting the balance right DSM has been exploring new approaches to restoring and preserving the natural and individual balance of skin microbiota
85 Activoil Echnidium ZRO for skin barrier function Innovacos has developed a lipophilic active to boost the skin’s natural defence against alcohol -based sanitisers and strong cleansing products
91 Activity of L(+)-lactic acid against enveloped viruses Jungbunzlauer describes L(+)-lactic acid as an active ingredient with dual power against enveloped viruses and bacteria
94 Potassium cetyl phosphate in natural formulations Schill+Seilacher discuss a remarkable material, which does not always behave as expected
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