LIFESTYLE


61


New hair care formulations for a busy lifestyle


Dr Rosemary Puls, Heike Riedemann, Julia Stuermer - Evonik, Germany


Water covers 70% of the Earth’s surface but only 0.3% of water resources can be practically used.1 By 2025, two-thirds of the world’s population may be at risk of water scarcity.2


Each person directly


consumes around 140 litres/day of water, 40% of it in the bathroom. The Energy Saving Trust reports that the greatest opportunities for saving water can be found in the bathroom, with showering being the largest water user in the home.3 Water scarcity is a global issue that is now


being reflected in consumers’ choices. Conscious consumer behavior is helping to support this market development. Studies suggest that 22% of UK consumers have changed their bathroom routine to use less water, while 34% of Italian consumers are interested in double concentrated bath or shower products.4 Personal care products that require less or


even no water are becoming more popular. Avoiding a daily shower with no-rinse products is an option consumer are considering. Thus, 45% of US soap, bath, and shower users stated that they would be interested in no-rinse products.4


No-


rinse formulations can be used without the need for water. The product is simply left in the hair and rinsed off later. These formulations can also absorb any excess oils. For similar reasons, dry shampoo product launches have been increasing in the last five years, driven by consumer demand and this is not limited to hair styling products. Dry shampoos have traditionally been used to provide the extra volume required for special occasions. Most consumers will be familiar with their drawbacks, however. The high powder content of these products causes itchiness and leaves the scalp feeling dry. They can also be inconvenient, requiring additional brushing to remove the excess powder.


When convenience and comfort are sacrificed,


consumers are left feeling uncomfortable and self- conscious. Avoiding water consumption is only part of the issue. Products still need to perform. Real behavioural change that will last a lifetime will only happen if this is the case. Spherelix 10® (INCI: Hydrated Silica), hereafter


referred to as spherical hydrated silica, is a key ingredient that Evonik supplies for use in dry shampoos. It improves their performance, making daily use possible without the disadvantages traditionally associated with dry shampoo.


A naturally derived product Consumers favor natural cosmetic products for their personal and environmental benefits.


www.personalcaremagazine.com


Spherical hydrated silica is a synthetic amorphous silica that is synthesised from silica, a naturally occurring mineral that is in fact the most abundant mineral on Earth. Silica forms part of the natural geological


cycle. On being released into water, it does not undergo any additional transformation. Instead, it dissolves to form silicic acid, the soluble form of silica, which is available for aquatic organisms and plants. Any silica dioxide that remains undissolved


in water simply settles on riverbeds and sea floors. Sedimentation naturally occurs as silica particles settle to form sand, which is then transformed into rocks. Once they are returned into the environment, there is no difference between naturally occurring and synthetic forms of silica. Synthetic amorphous silica has been


extensively studied. As a safe-to-use substance under REACH, silica is defined by ISO 16128-1 as a substance that meets the standards for “derived mineral materials”. Evonik’s spherical hydrated silica has been certified as a natural product by COSMOS and NaTrue. All in all, spherical hydrated silica is a multi-purpose raw material that has limited impact on the environment from sourcing and through production through to its end of life.


Manufacturing process Silica is already used as an additive in numerous applications in the field of personal care.


Evonik produces many different additives for formulations to improve the performance of final products and deliver additional properties necessary. By modifying the surface structure, size and porosity according to the application, the desired effect can be obtained by optimising the properties of the final product or formulation. Precipitated silicas like spherical hydrated


silica are made from a liquid water glass. However, the products under the Spherilex brand are produced in a novel, precise and patented process that leads to spherical and smooth particles with a uniformed size particle, a controlled microbiology and a high degree of purity. Natural silica is not spherical and has rough


edges - just consider sand on a beach. Spherical hydrated silica is denser, its structure is more compacted and particle size can be closely controlled to gain specific properties for the required product. The spherical particles are less abrasive, which improves the skin feel of a formulation. The narrow size distribution of the particles is much more controlled, reducing the feeling of dryness.


Testing Spherical hydrated silica was tested in dry shampoo formulations, which focused on sustainability and consumer-friendliness. It was applied to hair pre-treated with synthetic sebum. After using this novel formulation type, hair was left feeling refreshed and a natural, voluminous style was maintained.


November 2021 PERSONAL CARE


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