FORMULATIONS
77
D Thixcin® R PC Florasun® 90
Trihydroxystearin
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 1
4 1.00 4.50
Procedure: Combine the ingredients of Phase A and begin heating to 65-70°C. Homogenize with slow homomixing agitation at 65-70°C. Add Phase B to Phase A with slow homomixing agitation at 65-70°C. In a separate vessel mix the ingredients of Phase C with moderate propeller agitation and begin heating to 65-70°C. Very slowly add Phase C to Phase AB with slow homomixing agitation at 65-70°C. Increase to moderate homomixing agitation at 65-70°C. Begin cooling Phase ABC to 55-60°C. In a separate vessel mix the ingredients of Phase D with moderate propellor agitation at room temperature until uniform. Add Phase D to Phase ABC with moderate homomixing agitation at 55-60°C. Begin cooling to 50-55°C. Stop mixing at 50-55°C. Properties: Appearance: Thick cream SPF: 15 (n=1) Viscosity: 115-166kcP (Brookfield Digital Viscometer Model RVDV-E at RT, T-C, 2.0rpm) Stability: Passed Full Stability (through w8 4°C, RT, 45°C, DRT, UV; through w2 50°C; through 3 cycles FT; through 3 cycles HC)
Suppliers: 1. Cargill 2. Phoenix 3. BASF 4. Elementis 5. Nouryon 6. Sigma-Aldrich 7. Inolex Technol® LTO-R
CRODA BEAUTY EXFOLIATING SCALP CREAM
PHASE INGREDIENTS/ INCI NAME
A Water Deionised (Aqua) Glycerin
Keltrol® CG-V (Xanthum Gum) Sodium Benzoate Potassium Sorbate
B SP Crodamol™ SSA MBAL (Decyl Isostearate (and) Isostearyl Isostearate)
SP NatraGem™ EW MBAL (Glyceryl Stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/ Succinate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol)
Crodamol™ IPIS (Isopropyl Isostearate) Crodamol™ ISIS (Isostearyl Isostearate)
Apiscalp® (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Apium Graveolens (Celery) Seed Extract)
SP DuraQuench™ IQ SA MBAL (Cetyl Stearate (And) Isostearyl Isostearate (And) Cetyl Alcohol (And) Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (And) Stearic Acid)
C Crodarom® Beech (Glycerin (and) Water (and) Fagus Sylvatica Bark Extract)
Phytessence™ Hazel Leaf (Glycerin (and) Water (and) Corylus Avellana Leaf extract)
Scrubami™ Apricot 50/200 (Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Seed Powder)
Scrubami™ Walnut 400/500 (Juglans Regia Shell Powder) D 30 w/w% Citric Acid CH0165
SPLR % W/W to 100
5 3.00 6 0.50 7 0.30 7 0.20
1 1
1 1
1 7.50
5.00 4.50
3.00 3 3.00 1.00 2 2.00 2 1.00
4 0.35 4 0.05
to pH 5.0-5.5
Procedure: Premix Keltrol CG-V with Glycerin. Combine with the rest of Part A while stirring (700rpm) until homogeneous. Combine Part B. Heat both Part A and Part B separately to 70-80°C. Add Part B to Part A while stirring (400rpm). Homogenise for 1 min per 100g at 10000rpm. Combine Part C and add below 40°C. Stir to cool. Adjust pH to pH 5.0-5.5 if needed with Part D. Properties: Appearance: Light off-white emulsion pH: 5.5± 0.5 Viscosity: 18000± 10% (Brookfield DV2T Viscometer, Spindle 5, 10rpm, 25°C, measured after 1min) Stability: 3 months at 4°C, 25 °C, 40°C, 45°C, 50°C and 7 x -10°C/+40°C 24 hour freeze- thaw cycle
Suppliers: 1. Croda 2. Crodarom 3. Sederma 4. Alban Muller 5. Cargill 6. CP Kelco 7. VWR
Unipure® White LC 981 HLC
Rheopearl MKL2 Technol® LTO-R
A3 Emulium® Illustro
Dextrin myristate
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed OIL, C10-18 Triglycerides
Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglycerin-6
Compritol® 888 CG MB Glyceryl Behenate Cetyl Alcohol Lipocire™ A SG
Cetyl alcohol C10-18 Triglycerides
Hydrogenated Coconut Oil
HydrogenateD Coconut Oil
Reisita Natural 9094 Oryza Sativa Starch Preservative
Preservative A4 Emulium® Illustro
Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglycerin-6
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, C10-18 Triglycerides
Titanium Dioxide, Hydrogenated Lecithin
B Demineralized Water Water Magnesium Sulfate 99% Magnesium Sulfate C INBP50Y5A
Yellow 5 Lake, Isononyl Isononanoate, Isopropyl Myristate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Propylene Carbonate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid
INBP40B1A
D Gatuline® Radiance E Biogenic™ Magicolor
140Y Eco
Biogenic™ Magicolor 140R Eco
Biogenic™ Magicolor 140B Eco
Isononyl Isononanoate, Blue 1 Lake, Isopropyl Myristate, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Propanediol, Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract
Iron Oxides, Titanium Dioxide, Mica, Zein
Iron Oxides, Titanium Dioxide, Mica, Zein
Iron Oxides, Titanium Dioxide, Mica, Zein
2 5.00 3 9.00
4 3.00
4 2.00 4.00
4 10.00 5 3.00 6 1.00
1.00 4 2.00 3 2.00 7
5.00 33.89
2.00 8 0.15
8 0.10 4 3.00 9 2.20 9 0.55 9 0.11
Procedure: Heat phase A1 at 93-95°C to solubilize Magnesium Stearate and to obtain an homogenous gel (could take up to 45 minutes depending on mixing rate). Add emollients of Phase A2 into Phase A1 and maintain at 93-95°C. Sprinkle Rheopearl MKL2 under high sheer during 10-20 minutes, until phase creates an homogenous gel. Cool down to 85°C and add A3 to A1+A2. Mix until waxes are melted and phase is uniform. Prepare premix A4 by wetting out pigments and run through the three roll mill 3 times. Add A4 to Phase A1/A2/A3 at 75°C and mix under high sheer with rotor stator for 10-15 minutes until uniform. Prepare water phase B by dissolving magnesium sulfate and heat to 75°C. Proceed with the emulsion of water phase B1 into oil phase A at 75°C under rapid mixing and then increase to high shear (3000 rpm) for 15 minutes. Cool down under medium speed (1000 rpm) until reaching 45°C and add Phase C. Continue to cool down until 30-35°C and add Phase D. Under 30°C, add phase E under VERY SLOW mixing until it is homogeneous. DO NOT USE ROTOR STATOR: the beads of incapsulated pigments are highly shear sensitive so it requires slow mixing. Check conformity of the bulk at 25°C, then unload the bulk at 25°C. Properties: Aspect: Light green paste Viscosity: Brookfield RV (spindle D, speed 5): approx. 100000 mPa.s after 24h
Suppliers: 1. Basf 2. Miyoshi 3. Ikeda 4. Gattefossé 5. Rita Corporation 6. Agrana 7. Sensient 8. Kobo 9. Biogenic INC.
GATTEFOSSÉ REDNESS RESCUE PASTE
PHASE INGREDIENTS A1 Cetiol® C5
A2 Cetiol® C5 INCI NAME Coco-Caprylate
Magnesium Stearate Magnesium Stearate Coco-Caprylate
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GREENTECH STEP 1: HYDRA-SMOOTHING SCRUBBING PEEL-OFF MASK
PHASE INGREDIENTS
2862-3.07 SPLR % W/W
1 1
5.00 2.00 4.00
INCI NAME
A Demineralized water Aqua (Water) A-Leen 5
Lime Organic From Corsica HydroGlycerined Extrat 80 (410255)
Pentylene Glycol
Glycerin (And) Aqua (Water) (And) Citrus Aurantifolia Fruit Extract
MPOF-001-03 % W/W
75.52 3
1
June 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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