SUN CARE
Improving sensoriality of W/O mineral sunscreen
Neus Subirats Vicient – Kao Chemicals ABSTRACT
Formulating sunscreens is really challenging. Achieving a stable formulation with high enough sun protection can be difficult. Moreover, one of the claim categories of sun care products that have experienced the largest growth over the last three years is the Ethical and Environmental claim, based on Mintel database sources. This brings us to another key driving factor in the sun care industry: eco-sustainable sunscreens. Considering the wealth of information readily available to the public, it is no wonder that new generations of consumers are nowadays more conscious about the environmental and human health impact of conventional cosmetics, and are pushing for more sustainable product formats that utilize safe, ethically sourced and eco-friendly ingredients. As a result of this demand, sunscreens need
to be re-designed based on skin protection and oceans respect. Some factors to take into account are the use of safe ingredients without compromising efficacy or skin feel while also focusing on biodegradable, inorganic ingredients and water resistance formulas to respect the ocean environment. The challenges in the process of re-designed sunscreen formulation include the following.
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Sun protection factor (SPF) The SPF level is the key purchase driver for sunscreens. Very large amounts of UV filters are needed to achieved SPF above 30. Combinations of UV filters can help to secure a higher SPF and broad spectrum rating. Among the vehicle excipients, emollients are
essential in sunscreens, since their main role is to solubilize solid UV filters to render them efficient.
UV filters and environmental aspects Many UV filters are increasingly being regulated or outrightly banned in formulations, owing to environmental and human health safety concerns. Inorganic UV filters are gaining popularity due to their softness and lack of penetration into the skin compared to organic UV filters, in addition to other factors such as their natural mineral origin. These filters are easier to formulate in a W/O
system than in an O/W system. Furthermore, W/O emulsions show greater water resistance than O/W emulsions, in which the addition of polymers with water resistance is necessary.
Sensoriality This is a key factor for sunscreen products. Sensory aspects can clearly influence the
Sensoriality is a key factor in sunscreen products, as they must be applied several successive times to ensure effectiveness. To formulate a nice sensorial sunscreen product is not an easy task. In addition, sunscreens must be designed not only focusing on skin protection and water resistance, but also considering the human health impact of cosmetics and environmental aspects such as the prevention of ocean pollution by using safe ingredients. Sunscreens are mostly formulated as emulsions (creams and lotions) that incorporate UV filters both organic and inorganic ones. Inorganic UV filters are considered more ocean friendly, and they are easier to formulate in a water-in-oil (W/O) than in an oil-in-water (O/W) system. Nevertheless, inorganic UV filters can produce a whitening effect, and a high amount of oil phase is needed to disperse them. This can lead to a greasy and heavy feeling after application. Moreover, W/O emulsions show fewer lighting textures and heavier residues on the skin than O/W systems. In order to overcome these formulation challenges, Kao proposes the use of two specific ingredients: Exceparl LM-LC (Lauryl Lactate) as a solubilizer for UV filters with high solubility capacity and a low whitening effect, and Penetol GE-IS (Isostearyl Glyceryl Ether) as an emulsifier that forms liquid crystals in W/O emulsions with a higher internal phase content, affording a lighter and non-oily feel of the skin.
behavioural pattern in terms of the amount and frequency with which a consumer uses a sunscreen product; sensory aspects thus need to be carefully controlled and optimized. To ensure that the product will be
appreciated, applied and reapplied, and therefore prove effective, light textures with no heavy residue are of interest. This article describes how the use of
two specific ingredients in the re-designed sunscreen formulations can overcome the formulation challenges in order to produce eco- sustainable sunscreens. These specific ingredients are Lauryl
Lactate (Exceparl LM-LC) as a solubilizer for UV filters with a high solubility capacity and low whitening effect, and Isostearyl Glyceryl Ether
June 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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