72 HAIR CARE
a lower tendency to get broken by external forces applied and recorded increases of smoothness, silkiness and tangle free effect (Figure 2).
Hair gloss Noticeable improvement of hair gloss can be appreciated from the images taken through the Microcamera and Mambo instruments. The 3 different treatments on virgin locks
show that the hair treated with the placebo looks dull and brittle; conversely, the hair treated with the bioactive peptides and the synthetic Quat looks more vital, with well- adhered cuticles and consequently higher gloss effect.
The instrumental Mambo evaluation
carried out proves that the locks treated with the bioactive peptides show a highly significant increase in hair shine compared to the placebo, with performances superior to the Quat-based comparison active (Figure 3). Similar gloss values were recorded also through the CIE Lab scale (colorimeter analysis, data not shown). Both the Microcamera and the Mambo
pictures (Figure 4) show large areas of reflectance, in form of localized yellow-like signals given by specific points where the effective cuticle sealing promoted by the actives leads to optimized light reflecting properties.
Anti-frizz The bioactive peptides-treated locks showed a decrease in hair frizz by 44.2% compared to the placebo, against the comparison Quat value of 30.4% (Figure 5). In Figure 2, it is possible to observe the lower area of “fly- away” hair detected in the locks treated with the active.
Restructuring action Despite the main targeted action on the shaft surface, the bioactive peptides showed relevant performance also in terms of hair strengthening and restructuring; through the acquisition and analysis of digital images, it was possible to assess the hair state of health at the medullary and cortical level, before and after treatment with the product.
Kerashaft Alab vs Placebo
0 -5
-10 -15
-20 -25 -30 -35 -40 -45 -50
-19.7% -30.4% -44.2% Area (%)
Figure 5: Frizz reduction test: frizz reduction difference between each of the treatments The various colour shades (polarisation
colours or interference colours) in Figure 6 show the condition of the keratin structure inside the hair and how bleached treated hair compare to virgin healthy shaft units. After carrying out the conditioning
treatment on bleached hair, it can be observed that the hair treated with the bioactive peptides appears more similar in colour to a healthy hair than the hair treated with the placebo.
The performances were compared to
a market product claiming bond repair action, and the functionality pattern of both treatments was proven to be comparable, with the bioactive peptides showing a more extended and deep action at peri-medullary level.
Conclusion Kerashaft Alab is a worldwide approved (including China) active ingredient for hair care rinse off and leave on applications. It is based on an innovative biotech composition made of biodegradable vegetable derived oligopeptides and postbiotics. Compared to most of the market options in the same application field, its composition is fully ‘green’, compliant to Cosmos and Natrue standards, along with ISO16128 naturality value
PLM image
higher than 99%. Application-wise, it is positioned as
potential complement or alternative to benchmark cationic conditioning actives to significantly boost gloss, anti-frizz, resistance to combing and restructuring effects, therefore it can either complement or entirely replace conventional silicon and acrylates-based quats, while maintaining ‘salon-quality’ effects, which are often challenging to achieve with purely green alternatives. The speciality acts through its
oligopeptides by restructuring the damaged cortical area of the shaft and through its basic amino acids neutralizing static charges on the hair and supporting claims like hair luminosity, conditioning, detangling, anti-frizz, restructuring, combing and manageability improvement. Due to its unique structural nature and
tailored substantivity, the bioactive peptides are particularly suitable for styling products, especially those designed to avoid build-up, with recommended dosages starting from 3%. Ex vivo studies prove its superior anti-frizz,
resistance to combing, gloss and restructuring actions against market benchmarks specific for each claim in object, backing up strongly its marketing positioning as salon-inspired 100% green technology.
Synthetic Quat vs Placebo
Kerashaft Alab vs Synthetic Quat
PC
Placebo
Bond repair Active
Kerashaft Alab
Virgin Hair
Bleached hair treated with placebo, a bond repair active and Kerashaft Alab; the virgin hair in the fourth box shows how healthy hair looks at the microscope
Figure 6: The condition of the keratin structure inside the hair and how bleached treated hair compare to virgin healthy shaft units PERSONAL CARE June 2024
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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