HAIR CARE
containing the bioactive peptides at 3% against a solution containing benchmark products with the same active matter of the active analyzed (specifically a synthetic quat and bond repair active found on the market) and a placebo solution as control. The instruments used were as follows. The
Microcamera® system is a professional digital video-dermatoscope enabling to highlight details not visible to the human eye, by placing the probe on the surface to be enlarged to obtain sharp, full-colour images overcoming the limitations of traditional microscopes. For the combing test, a Dynamometer ZTS
550N by Imada was used: this instrument measures the friction generated between a comb/brush and hair during grooming. Hair combability was evaluated by
comparing the average combability strength recorded by the tensometer following 50 grooming cycles. In the experimental test setup, hair tresses were suspended from a load cell that is connected to the crosshead of a tensile testing device. The distance between the clamps was
30 mm. The bundle was strained at 100 mm min-1 (100 % min-1) for a total stroke of 100 mm. After grooming, the average force (N) parameter was obtained. Hair gloss was analyzed through a Mambo, a hand-held sensor that can be used on hair swatches or directly on the model head. The Mambo uses a specific geometry – a diffusive sphere – and a stable LED illumination that allows the user to always take colour measurements in the same conditions. Moreover, the colour-calibrated 12-bit
camera enables a high-precision comparison of the luminosity of the hair fibres measured
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Kerashaft Alab vs Placebo
and those in its databases without any subjectivity. The frizz control test was carried out
through the Bolero Lite System (Bossa Nova Vision), an imaging system dedicated to hair swatch 3D volume reconstruction and fly- away/frizz analysis. It is used in the cosmetic industry to substantiate claims and evaluate products efficacy such as conditioners, volumizing shampoo, shine sprays, etc. Based on the acquisition of a sequence
of contour images of a swatch, Bolero delivers a 3D model of the hair swatch. The system also simultaneously provides volume measurements as part of the 3D model, including frizz/fly-away analysis. PLM enables the analysis the hair
damaged by heat or through a polarized light Microcamera image
Synthetic Quat vs Placebo
Figure 3: Luminosity test: variation percentage of the 3 treatments
microscope. The greater the damage, the greater the prevalence of yellow-red signals at the microscope. The polarisation colours detected, especially in presence of blue signals at the cortical/medullary level are indicators that hair keratin possesses a specific structural order, therefore, when these colours are altered, damage occurs.
Test results Combing and manageability improvement The bioactive peptides-treated locks showed the best average combability, with values superior by 130% to the placebo group. The synthetic quat recorded improvement versus placebo is by 33.7% (Figure 1). The hair treated with the bioactive peptides is therefore more resilient to combing, with
Kerashaft Alab vs Synthetic Quat
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Placebo
Synthetic Quat Mambo image
Kerashaft Alab
Placebo
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Synthetic Quat
Kerashaft Alab Figure 4: Both the Microcamera and the Mambo pictures show large areas of reflectance June 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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