42 NATURALS


Sustainable, functional amino acid ingredients


Naoaki Ikeda - Ajinomoto


Amino acids are important substances for human as basic molecules constituting proteins and are also important for industrial substances because of the various physiological functions and physicochemical properties of each amino acid. In recent years, with advances in production


technology of biotechnology and an increase in production volumes, purified amino acids are becoming available at relatively low prices. Also, new findings of amino acids have been clarified through research activities. As a result, amino acids are widely used in various industries, including foods, supplements, medicines, feed, and personal care products. In personal care products particularly, amino


acids are known as the main components of natural moisturizing factor (NMF), which has the function of retaining water in the stratum corneum to maintain healthy skin. The constituent components of NMF are low molecular weight molecules such as amino acids, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (and its salts), urea, mineral salts, and organic acids (and its salts), with the majority being amino acids and their derivatives.1


Amino acids in the stratum corneum are


primarily derived from profilaggrin, a protein produced in the granular layer of the skin. Profilaggrin is transferred to stratum corneum cells following epidermal turnover and then converted to filaggrin. It is further broken down into amino acids, some of which undergo metabolism and function as NMF within the stratum corneum.2 When the amount of NMF contained in the


stratum corneum decreases, the moisturizing function of the stratum corneum decreases, hence the concept of replenishing NMF components to dry skin is helpful. In fact, when measuring the content of each NMF component in the stratum corneum, it has been reported that when NMF components are applied externally, amino acids and amino acid derivatives penetrate into the stratum corneum and improve moisture retention.3 In the personal care market, environmentally


friendly natural and organic products, as well as social values such as ethics, have attracted a great deal of attention. Amino acids or amino acid derivatives, which are biological constituents and have high biodegradability, contribute to the development of a sustainable cosmetics industry. Ajinomoto has a portfolio of personal


care ingredients such as surfactants, wetting agents, emollients, oil gelling agents, functional


PERSONAL CARE June 2024


Figure 1: Structure of PCA Na O


N H


COO_ Na+


powders etc. In this article, we will introduce humectants and functional powders.


Pyrrolidone carboxylate Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) has a structure in which glutamic acid is cyclized through dehydration condensation and is a humectant that is the main component of NMF. Since pyrrolidone carboxylic acid is obtained from


glutamic acid produced by a fermentation method using a plant-derived sugar source, it can be said to be a fermentation-derived humectant. As unneutralized PCA contains carboxylic acid, it is sometimes used as a pH adjuster in cosmetic formulations, but it is mainly used in the form of sodium or zinc salts with increased water solubility. Here, the character of the sodium salt and zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid are described.


Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid sodium salt (PCA Na) Sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid has high solubility in water and can maintain a stable liquid state even at high concentrations, so it is mainly distributed as an aqueous solution as a cosmetic raw material


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