NATURALS
Est-Agar manufactures EstGel1000™, which is a powdered furcellaran. As furcellaran molecules commonly exist in highly hydrated states, the substance has a high-water binding capacity, thus effectively reducing transepidermal water loss and providing moisturizing properties. Its polyelectrolytic nature enriches the formulations with useful mineral substances, especially with potassium ions important for cell renewal. The perfectly balanced charge density
allows furcellaran to interact with proteins and gives this hydrocolloid various bioactive activities, including anti-ageing, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. As a high molecular weight polysaccharide,
furcellaran main functions are texturing and stabilizing properties and under certain conditions to form gel. Hence, pure furcellaran can be used in the beauty industry as an ingredient adding luxurious and smooth texture to enhance the overall sensory experience for users, increasing viscosity or used as an emulsifier. Serving as a great alternative to other
plant-based texturants, as well animal-derived gelatin, hence, its nickname vegan gelatin. Making it suitable choice for vegan and cruelty- free beauty products. What is particularly noteworthy is that the bioactive properties can be significantly enhanced through hydrolysis—a technology that produces furcellaran concentrate.
High technological furcellaran concentrate by Codif Technologie Naturelle The French company Codif Technologie Naturelle has developed a high technological furcellaran concentrate. The pure furcellaran was depolymerized with a green technology, named HTAC (for Hydro-Thermolysis Accelerated by Supercritical CO2
).
an acidic hydrolyzation using supercritical fluids (water and CO2
This patented technology is based on ) under a specific
pressure. It allows to obtain a controlled depolymerization without degradation of the polymer (no desulfatation). The rehydration of depolymerized furcellaran with an enriched sea salts solution brings minerals, mainly potassium, inducing a double helix reorganization of the polymer which gives it adsorption properties similar to those of hyaluronic acid.
Hydranov – universal and smart moisturizer for skin The obtained product (named Hydranov) has interesting properties for cosmetic applications. With its high molecular weight and its ability to adsorb water molecules, it will act on skin surface with the same benefits of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid; thus, creating a moisturizing second skin. Moreover, it stimulates the production
of hyaluronic acid (HA) in the epidermis, the superficial layer of the skin (Figure 5). The skin was treated with or without
the oligofurcellaran at 1.5% in water for nine days (six topical applications per skin). Then, the untreated and treated skin was fixed in
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Figure 4: Furcellaran powder – Light beige powder with a neutral taste and odour. Soluble in cold and hot water. Loss on drying ≤12%. Particle size at least 95% < 150 μm
Figure 2: Seashore covered with Furcellaria lumbricalis in Saaremaa, Estonia R H
O O
OH O O OH R=SO3 Figure 3: Furcellaran chemical structure
formalin, and the staining of hyaluronic acid was performed with an anti-hyaluronic acid biotinylated protein (HABP) for one hour at room temperature, with an amplifier system biotin/streptavidin as described previously.1 An image analysis was then performed on
the photographs obtained to quantify these markers. Hyaluronic acid in the untreated explants occupies 11.8% of the total surface of the epidermis, while it occupies 36.6% of the surface in explants treated with oligofurcellaran. Used at 1.5%, it significantly increases the
synthesis of hyaluronic acid by 211% in the treated epidermis compared with untreated
epidermis. This effect contributes to a very good moisturizing effect of the depolymerized furcellaran. Another analysis showed that the HA
production was also increased by +124% in the dermis, the deeper layer of the skin (data not shown). Moreover, it stimulates the expression of important proteins involved in barrier function: the level of expression of claudin-1 increased by +45%,ceramides increased by +56%, and caspase-14 expression increase by +70%.
Anti-pollution effect Moreover, this ingredient has showed an interesting protection of skin against pollution, especially against car exhaust fumes,2
but
also against small particle matter (PM2.5). Pollution particles used for the study were ‘fine particulate matter’ (atmospheric particles from urban area) called Standard Reference Material® 2786 (SRM 2786). They were collected by the Institute of
Nuclear Physics in Prague in 2005, from an air intake filtration system of a major exhibition in Prague (Czech Republic) and distributed by the National Institute of Standards & Technology (NIST), which is an agency of the US Department of Commerce. SRM 2786 present an average diameter
close to 2.5 microns (maximum diameter <4μm) and is composed of element naturally present in the particles of pollution, such as dioxins (including PCDD), furans (including PCDF), PAHs (Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons)
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