NATURALS A Placebo ■ AHE 1.5% ■
25.0% 20.0% 15.0% 10.0% 5.0% 0.0%
0.0% -5.0%
19.1% +16%
-10.0% -15.0
3.1%
-20.0% -25.0%
Figure 2: Hydration effect (T0 vs T0+15min) mask AHE 1.5% Additionally, Heilmoor extract maintains
vitality and diversity of the skin microbiome. Maintaining balance within the cutaneous microbiome is critical for skin homeostasis. As the skin’s primary barrier, it strengthens the skin’s defence mechanisms, produces molecules that inhibit the proliferation of opportunistic pathogens and plays a key role in the education of the local immune system. Any disturbance or dysbiosis of this balance can lead to various skin disorders such as acne or sensitive skin.
Anti-ageing effects Heilmoor Extract has anti-ageing properties. It modulates cellular senescence and promotes wound healing. Senescent cells are cells that have entered a state of irreversible growth arrest. This typically occurs in response to various stressors such as DNA damage, oxidative stress or telomere shortening. In the skin, senescent cells accumulate with age. They can interfere with tissue regeneration
and repair processes. They secrete a variety of bioactive molecules, collectively known as the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP), which can promote inflammation, degrade the extracellular matrix and disrupt tissue homeostasis. Senescent cells have been implicated in developing age-related skin conditions such as wrinkles, impaired wound
A
100% 90% 80% 70% 60% 50% 40% 30% 20% 10% 0%
Figure 3: (A) Crow´s feet wrinkles (T0 vs T0+15min) mask AHE 1.5%. (B) Crow’s feet wrinkle (PRIMOS) untreated. (C) Crow’s feet wrinkle (PRIMOS) treated AHE 1.5% (T0+15min)
healing and age spots. Heilmoor extract modulates keratinocyte
differentiation markers, including the expression of K10 and K16.4
Cytokeratin 10 (CK-10)
and cytokeratin 16 (CK-16) are two types of cytokeratin. They are intermediate filament proteins found in epithelial cells, including those in the skin. CK-10 is mainly expressed in the suprabasal layers of the epidermis. It contributes to the structural integrity of the skin barrier and to keratinocyte differentiation. Terminal differentiation of keratinocytes
is typically associated with its expression. On the other hand, particularly in response to injury, inflammation or abnormal keratinisation processes, CK-16 is normally expressed in the basal layer of the epidermis. In hyperproliferative conditions such as acne,
psoriasis, wounds and certain types of skin tumours, CK-16 expression is often upregulated. Both CK-10 and CK-16 play essential roles in maintaining skin integrity, regulating keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation, and responding to various physiological and pathological stimuli. Heilmoor extract also upregulates expression
of E-cadherin B1 and B2. E-cadherins are components of adherens junctions. These structures ensure intercellular adhesion amongst epithelial cells.5
They regulate a diverse range
of other cellular processes next to adhesion, Placebo ■ AHE 1.5% ■
B 83% 67% -16%
such as cell shape, division, growth, apoptosis, wound healing and barrier function. Furthermore, Heilmoor extract inhibits sphingomyelinase activity, which also contributes to skin integrity and barrier function.
Antioxidant protection Heilmoor extract counteracts oxidative stress by reducing the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The mitigation of oxidative stress through the use of reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavengers, resulting in a delay in the age-related decline in physiological processes and a significant increase in average lifespan, serves as evidence in support of the oxidative stress theory of ageing.6 Mitochondria have been identified as the
primary sites of ROS accumulation. Regulator of calcineurin-1 (RCAN1) controls mitochondrial functions and increases susceptibility to oxidative stress.7
Age-related functional losses
and diseases are associated with accumulation of reactive oxygen (ROS) and nitrogen species, such as nitrogen monoxide (NO). Most Isoprostanes are produced by ROS
that catalyse lipid peroxidation. Measurement of Isoprostanes is an accurate way to assess oxidative stress in vivo and can be correlated with numerous diseases.8 Pre-clinical studies have shown a significant
C -8.8% -9.4% -18.2% C A Placebo ■ AHE 1.5% ■ B
49
T0+1 min
Figure 4: (A) Reduction of stinging intensity after one minute. (B) Calming effect (Visia) untreated AHE 1.5%. (C) Calming effect (Visia) treated AHE 1.5% after 21 days
www.personalcaremagazine.com June 2024 PERSONAL CARE
Δ D0Dx Hydration rate (%) % of stinging intensity in mean
Δ D0Dx Crow's feet surface (%)
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