HAIR CARE
needs of textured hair, it respects the hair itself. And by developing formulations centred around consciously designed fragrance and ingredients which are responsibly sourced, produced through biotech, or upcycled, it also respects the planet. In this way, this solution is designed to have an impact that goes well beyond hair care.
Vitamins and Natural origin actives and LockScent™ technology – a powerful combination This textured haircare line features a total of five formulations: four products for a wash day routine, two products for the refreshing routine and one in common for both. By utilizing the benefits of vitamins, natural origin actives, and LockScent technology, this line can help simplify textured haircare regimes while delivering on performance and ensuring long-lasting fragrance and a continuous sensation of freshness.8 The wash day formulations are a cleansing
conditioner, to remove impurities without stripping the hair fibre, a hydration mousse to replenish moisture, a luminous wax for deep conditioning, shine and curl definition, and a scalp serum to help improve hair density, visibly improve scalp hydration, help reduce sebum and soothe skin. The formulations for the refreshing routine
are the hydration mousse again, for extra moisturization, and an oily gel to condition curls and refresh their definition while helping to reduce breakage and split ends. For optimum results and to make these
formulations as environmentally responsible as possible, they feature a highly renewable, highly biodegradable fragrance and some of our most exemplary ingredients. For instance, the cornerstones of the scalp
serum formulation are Saccharide Isomerate, Epilobium Fleischeri Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract and Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract and Vitamin B12 Cyanocobalamin. All these ingredients are well regarded for their sustainability and their performance. Saccharide Isomerate is derived from edible
maize kernels, 100% natural and biodegradable, and proven to moisturize and strengthen the scalp barrier and to reduce flaking and sebum in vivo. Organically cultivated and fair trade certified
Epilobium Fleischeri Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract has been shown to reduce sebum production in the skin, while organically cultivated and fair trade certified Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/ Leaf Extract has been shown to help increase hair density in vivo. Additionally, our Vitamin B12 Cyanocobalamin, which is produced through non-GMO bacterial fermentation, can help relieve sensitive skin. Consciously sourced ingredients are also a key
feature of the ULocks luminous wax formulation – 100% natural origin Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Seed Extract and our unique blend of upcycled spent grain wax, cold processed argan oil and shea butter both help to reduce hair breakage and split ends. The signature fragrance in these formulations
is developed with LockScent™ technology bonding (interactions with hair proteins, by polar interaction (e.g. hydrogen bonding) or dispersion forces (e.g. van der Waals interactions)) with hair
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Figure 1: Products are for illustration only, not for sale. DSM-Firmenich is not responsible for final products claims
keratin. Sensory tests have shown that with this technology, fragrance intensity remains as high at seven days as it was at day one.8
Tested and approved by external consumers9 To test the formulations and the routine in as authentic a way as possible, we worked directly with 29 external consumers in France, aged 26- 35 and with Type 4 coily hair. These consumers were asked to use the formulations at home for one month under their usual, everyday conditions. To enable them to evaluate the products in a
natural way, at the end of the testing period, they were asked to complete a questionnaire, giving feedback based on individual experiences.
Wash day routine and formulations According to 89% of the consumers, the overall wash day routine kept the hair and scalp clean for between four and five days after first application. Around 70% reported that it was easier to detangle their hair and that their hair had a noticeable feeling of hydration for between four and five days after using the formulations. The fragrance was also well appreciated with
72% of consumers agreeing that the products had a long- lasting scent that left them feeling fresh until the next wash. Significantly, when it came to time spent on the wash day routine, 56% of participants said that they were able to complete the whole routine in under one hour. Feedback about the luminous wax and scalp
serum formulations which we mentioned above, was also positive. For the luminous wax, 95% of consumers
commented on ease of application and said that their hair felt nourished without a sticky effect; more than 85% noticed silky and shiny hair after application; and 75% reported good properties in holding curls. For the scalp serum, 84% of consumers said that the product had good scalp hydration properties.
Refreshing routine and formulations The overall refreshing routine and its
formulations were also well received, with 61% of consumers reporting a noticeable feeling of hair hydration two to three days after applying the products, and silky hair directly after use. Additionally, 67% of consumers agreed
that the products had a lasting fragrance which refreshed curls between shampoos and delivered a fresh sensation.
Conclusion By developing solutions that meet the specific needs of textured hair consumers, like the line of formulations presented here, our industry can increase choice for people, help them enhance their hair’s natural beauty, and make pleasurable, straightforward haircare routines the norm for everyone. And by putting the emphasis on naturally
derived and sustainably sourced ingredients as well, we can also fulfil the growing desire for a more natural approach to haircare in every sense of that term. What a positive way to address the texture gap!
References 1.
https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/ Article/2023/11/20/60-70-of-the-world- s-population-has-texture-in-their-hair.- Innovating-in-the-underserved-textured- hair-care-market
2. Kantar Profiles/Mintel, February 2022, January 2022, December 2022
3. DSM-Firmenich 2023 – Global survey 3 countries [USA, France, Brazil] - 1500 women
4. Lightspeed/Mintel Base: UK: 1,949 internet users aged 16+
5. Carra Labs – June 2021 6. Kantar Profiles/Mintel, September 2022 / US 7. Kantar Profiles/Mintel; Feb. 2022/US 8. Sensory test – 2023 – n=30 - overall fragrance intensity of the wash day routine (day 1) versus refreshing routine (day 1 + day 4 + day 7) on hair swatches
9. External consumer test – 29 users of textured hair products with Type 4 hair (28 % with 4A hair type, 41 % 4B, and 31 % 4C) – average age between 26-35 years old – 1 month usage test – France – 2023
June 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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