34 SKIN CARE
Control
Irradiated control (7J/cm2
)
Irradiated (7J/cm2
) Resurrection Plant and Green Coffee active at 0.016%
Figure 1: Analysis by Immunofluorescence of Lipofuscin (green) and counterstaining with DAPI (blue, marker of cell nuclei), microscopic images with 40x magnification
resurrection plant, stands out for its extraordinary capacity to endure prolonged dehydration. Unlike other plant species that exhibit partial tolerance to desiccation, this unique plant can survive nearly complete water loss, around 95% of cell water. Its remarkable ability to restore functionality
within 24-48 hours of hydration makes it a botanical marvel, especially during the winter when the plants remain dry, retaining their leaves that bend closely to the stems. Water is received only at the onset of the summer rainy period. The plant’s resilience extends to extreme temperature conditions, both hot and cold. Indigenous to the rocky slopes of inselbergs in southern Africa, this plant holds profound cultural, folkloric, and medicinal importance on the African continent. Revered by the Zulu tribe, it is aptly named ‘Uvukwabafile,’ translating to ‘wake up the dead.’ This nomenclature reflects the belief that Myrothamnus flabellifolia imparts its ability to revive to individuals undergoing treatment, making it a symbol of hope in African tradition.7 The phytochemical composition of
Myrothamnus flabellifolius leaf extract is rich and diverse, encompassing flavonoids, anthocyanins, alkaloids, steroids, terpenoids, triterpenes, cardiac glycosides, saponins, phlobatanins, tannins, polyphenols, and sugars.7 Coffea arabica stands as a notable source
of antioxidants in the human diet, boasting a diverse chemical composition. This includes phenolic compounds and derivatives, such as chlorogenic acids, alkaloids (chiefly caffeine), diterpenoid alcohols, carbohydrates, lipids, and volatile and heterocyclic compounds.
Scientific studies on C. arabica extracts reveal a spectrum of valuable biological activities, anti-inflammatory properties, suppression of metalloproteinase expression, and reduction of oxidative damage to macromolecules.8
Detox efficacy This test aimed to assess the detoxifying effect by lipofuscin cellular waste reduction of the resurrection plant and green coffee active through an in vitro model. The evaluation was carried out on human
dermal fibroblasts treated with the active ingredient at 0.016% and incubated for 24 hours for subsequent irradiation with three doses of UVA per day, totaling 7J/cm2
. After this period, the cells
were analyzed by the in vitro immunofluorescence technique by SenTraGor™ Method. The irradiated and active-treated group
was compared to the control group (with no treatment) and the irradiated control group (with no treatment and irradiated with UVA 7J/cm2 As shown in Figure 1, the active at 0.016%
).
was able to eliminate lipofuscin generated by exposure to UVA radiation, matching the control group without irradiation stress.
Skin brightening and pro-ageing effect This test aimed to evaluate the brightening effect on age spots and general pigmentation, as well as improvements in skin texture and elasticity (anisotropy) among volunteers after daily use for 56 days, with intermediate measurements taken during the treatment period. The trial utilized the potent combination
of resurrection plant and green coffee active ingredients in a clinical, randomized, single-
blind, placebo-controlled setting. A clinical randomized, single-blind placebo-
controlled trial involved two groups of female volunteers (total n = 68), receiving either a placebo cream (34 volunteers) or a cream formulation containing resurrection plant and green coffee active at 2% (34 volunteers). Participants applied the topical formulations
to facial skin, hands, and forearms twice a day (morning and evening). In addition, all volunteers applied a sunscreen formulation every morning. All assessments were conducted by a dermatologist. Volunteers underwent a 56-day topical
treatment with either placebo formulation or resurrection plant and green coffee active 2% formulation on facial, hands, and forearm areas. Volunteer obligations included refraining
from applying other similar treatments, avoiding aesthetic treatments such as exfoliating, botox, and peeling, adhering to use conditions of tested treatments, maintaining hygiene and makeup habits, and abstaining from makeup in the experimental area during control days at the research centre. In this randomized single-blind placebo-
controlled clinical trial, the clinical effects of topical application of placebo and resurrection plant and green coffee active 2% formulations were assessed after 28 and 56 days. Clinical, skin macroscopic, and biomechanical parameters were quantified. Evaluations were conducted by a technician and a dermatologist before any treatment (Day 0), and at 28 (day 28) and 56 (day 56) days after treatments. All measurements at days 0, 28 and 56 involved a 30-minute rest in a room with controlled humidity and temperature.
T0
T28
T56
Figure 2: Lightening and increased skin tone homogeneity of the hands treated with 2% active ingredient (resurrection plant and green coffee extract) at 28 and 56 days
PERSONAL CARE June 2024
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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