50 NATURALS
reduction in ROS production, 8-isoprostane levels, RCAN-1 and RAGE expression. Advanced glycation end products (AGEs) are formed by non-enzymatic reactions between proteins and reducing sugars.9
A These AGEs have been found to
be highly accumulated in extrinsically aged skin.10 Previous research suggests that AGEs tend
to accumulate in dermal elastin and collagens, and bind non-specifically to the cell membrane of dermal fibroblasts. Consequently, AGEs may contribute to skin ageing as their binding to multi-ligand receptors known as RAGEs can induce oxidative stress and inflammatory responses.
Anti-inflammatory properties As evidenced by its ability to modulate the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines, Heilmoor extract has potent anti-inflammatory activity. A continuous expression of cytokines following noxious stress causes chronic inflammation and skin damage which in turn leads to skin disease and (premature) ageing.11 In vitro studies have shown a significant
reduction in the release of IL-6, IL-8, TNF-α, IL-1β, PGE2, MCP-1 and MMP9. IL-6, IL-8, TNF-α, IL-1β, PGE2, MCP-1 and MMP9 play a complex role in skin immune and inflammatory responses and tissue homeostasis. IL-6, a multifunctional cytokine, not only
stimulates immune cells but also regulates skin barrier function. IL-8, a potent chemokine, recruits neutrophils to sites of inflammation in the skin, which is critical for the initial response to injury or infection. TNF-α and IL-1β, pro- inflammatory cytokines, promote inflammation and tissue damage, contributing to conditions such as acne, psoriasis and dermatitis. PGE2, derived from arachidonic acid metabolism, influences inflammation and vasodilation in the skin, affecting blood flow and immune cell trafficking.12
MCP-1 acts as a
chemoattractant, attracting monocytes and macrophages to inflamed skin sites where they participate in immune responses. MMP9, a matrix metalloproteinase, aids in tissue remodelling, particularly in wound healing, but excessive activity can lead to collagen degradation and impaired skin integrity, observed in conditions such as chronic wounds and ageing skin.13
An understanding of rinse-off applications in skin care Rinse-off treatments are a cornerstone of the skincare routine. They provide a convenient and effective way to cleanse and revitalise the skin. Rinse-off formulations play a crucial role in maintaining skin health and vitality, whether it is pollutants, impurities, excess oil, or acne-causing bacteria. The efficacy of Heilmoor extract in rinse-off formulations should be fully investigated to unlock its detoxifying, purifying, moisturising, soothing and acne-fighting potential.
Instant hydration and improvement crow’s feet wrinkles This study investigates the immediate benefits of Heilmoor extract through a single application mask, focusing on hydration enhancement and reduction of crow’s feet wrinkles. The efficacy
PERSONAL CARE June 2024
100% 90% 80% 70% 60% 50%
Placebo ■ AHE 1.5% ■ B 97.8%
+16.3% 81.4%
C
Figure 5: (A) Reduction of anti-pollution (fine carbon microparticles). (B) Anti-pollution effect (HD photography) untreated. (C) Anti-pollution effect (HD photography) treated AHE 1.5%
of the product was assessed 15 minutes post- application, evaluating both the hydration levels and surface appearance of crow’s feet wrinkles.14 Results demonstrate significant
improvements in skin appearance, with a reduction in fine lines of up to -18.2% compared to baseline (T0), and -9.4% compared to a placebo (p<0.001) (Figure 2). Moreover, an immediate hydration effect was observed 15 minutes post-application, with an increase of +19.1% compared to baseline, and +16% compared to the placebo (p<0.001) (Figure 3). These findings underscore the rapid and tangible benefits of Heilmoor extract in enhancing skin hydration and reducing the signs of ageing, offering promising implications for immediate skincare solutions.
Calming effect on sensitive skin Sensitive skin needs gentle but effective measures to calm irritation and restore balance. The efficacy of Heilmoor extract in rinse-off formulations was demonstrated in a clinical study on sensitive skin (p<0.001). A single application of 1.5% Heilmoor extract
produced a remarkable soothing effect. It was 16% better than placebo after just one minute. This effect was sustained and improved by 42% after 15 minutes (Figure 4). This demonstrates the rapid and sustained efficacy of Heilmoor extract in soothing sensitive skin.
Acne reduction A key role in the development of acne is played by the activation of innate immunity through the expression of cytokines by keratinocytes,15 leading to hyperkeratinisation of the pilosebaceous unit.
Detoxification and protection against environmental pollutants Environmental pollutants are a major threat to skin health. Effective detoxification strategies are needed. Heilmoor extract has shown remarkable efficacy in rinse-off formulations in a clinical study on detoxification and pollution protection. A single application of 1.5% AHE resulted in
a remarkable improvement in detoxification, 16.3% higher than placebo (p<0.006) (Figure 5). The deposition of carbon microparticles on the skin was eliminated. This underlines Heilmoor extract´s ability to cleanse, purify and protect the skin from environmental aggressors. No clinical signs of discomfort or aggravation were reported
by study participants. Acne is a widespread dermatological problem.
Targeted interventions are required to address its multiple causes. The effectiveness of Heilmoor extract in combating acne has been thoroughly investigated in a comprehensive 21-day study. Significant improvements in key parameters
were observed with a cleansing formula containing 1.5% Heilmoor extract (Figure 6). Compared to the placebo, sebum production was reduced by 22% (p<0.05)., while open comedones and papules were reduced by 19% and 24% respectively (p<0.001) vs T0. Heilmoor extract is a promising solution for acne-prone skin due to this strong anti-acne effect.
Conclusion The rinse-off studies that have investigated the effectiveness of the Heilmoor extract underline its many benefits for skin care. Alpin Heilmoor Extract offers a comprehensive solution to a variety of dermatological concerns, from detoxification and impurity protection to hydration, soothing and acne reduction. As research continues to explore its
therapeutic mechanisms and clinical applications, Heilmoor extract is ready to redefine skincare and usher in a new era of holistic wellness and glowing beauty.
PC
References 1. Gomes C, Carretero M, Pozo M, Maraver F, Cantista P, Armijo F et al. Peloids and pelotherapy: Historical evolution, classification and glossary. Appl. Clay Sci. 2013; May 1;75–76:28–38
2. Stacy A, Belkaid Y. 2019. Microbial guardians of skin health. Science. 363:227–228.
3. Linehan JL et al. 2018. Non-classical immunity controls microbiota impact on skin immunity and tissue repair. Cell. 172:784–796.e18
4. Kumar V, Bouameur J-E, Bär J, Rice RH, Hornig-Do H-T, Roop DR et al. A keratin scaffold regulates epidermal barrier formation, mitochondrial lipid composition, and activity. J. Cell. Biol. 2015; Dec 7; 211(5):1057–75
5. Borg M, Brincat S, Camilleri G, Schembri- Wismayer P, Brincat M, Calleja-Agius J. The role of cytokines in skin aging. Climacteric. 2013; Oct;16(5):514–21
6. Liguori I, Russo G, Curcio F, Bulli G, Aran L, Della-Morte D et al. Oxidative stress, aging, and diseases. Clin. Interv. Aging. 2018; Apr 26;13:757–72
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Δ D0Dx elimination index 'IE' of microparticle (%)
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