56 NATURALS
and 2 Nitro-PAHs, PBDEs (Polybrominated Diphenyl Ether) and metals (e.g. Al, Si, Fe). The pollution particles were applied on human skin before or after the previous application of the oligofurcellaran at 1.5% in water. Then skin fragments were fixed for a microscopic analysis using scanning electron microscopy (SEM) image acquisition and analysis of the chemical components by energy dispersive spectroscopy (EDS).
The results showed a clear reduction of pollution particles at the surface of the skin, whatever the mode of application of the oligofurcellaran (before or after pollution). An example of images is presented in Figure 6 showing a clear benefit of rinsing the skin with oligofurcellaran in order to reduce particles of pollution.
The solution containing oligofurcellaran,
used in prevention or into rinsing solution, decreases PM2.5 fine particles adhesion at skin surface. The EDS analysis showed a clear reduction of aluminium content by 20%, of silicon content by 18% and of iron content by 20%, confirming the anti-pollution effect. According to these results, it could be incorporated in anti-pollution products, whether in skin care for protective effect or in a make-up remover lotion for cleansing effect.
Furcellaran for hair protection and repair Codif Technologie Naturelle developed a second product using the same furcellaran (named Capiguard). This ingredient has interesting effect for hair care applications, by protection of hair shaft against pollution, and against carbonylation (protein oxidation) induced by pollution particle matters (PM2.5) or by UV rays. It prevents the binding of pollution
Figure 5: Microscopic observation of HA in human skin untreated (left) or treated with oligofurcellaran containing ingredient at 1.5% (right)
particles (-78%) and also eliminated the pollution particles already fixed.3 In addition to the protection, the product
also repairs the hair, restores a healthy cuticle, providing a resurfacing effect. The model used was hair samples from a 35-year-old single female Caucasian whose hair had not undergone any particular capillary treatment. Strands of hair were collected near the ends
of the hairs, which represent the most damaged part of the capillary fibre. They consisted of about 30 capillary fibres with a working length of 5 cm.
The hair strands were arranged in such a
way as to create a single thick layer. Three hair strands were used as the control and three others were treated with the oligofurcellaran. The strands were then fluorescence stained
for observation and analysis using a staining solution containing fluorescein at 0.1% in a saline solution (PBS) for 30 minutes, a rinsing step with demineralised, a section making with a cryotome after freezing at -20°C, a mounting
of slides with a mounting medium in a natural resin, and then an observation of slides under a confocal microscope (12 images per strand, x630 enlargement, immersion in oil). In this test, the hydrophilic compound
fluorescein penetrates further into the hair fibre and increases colouration as damage to the cuticle increases. An example of images is shown in Figure 7 showing that treating the hair with oligofurcellaran at 1% prevents penetration of fluorescein into the hair fibre in comparison with the control. The treatment of hair cuticles with
oligofurcellaran at 1% reduces the intensity of internal colouring by 68% compared to the control. Finally, it facilitates the hair detangling.
When oligofurcellaran is applied to the hair, it repairs and smooths the cuticle’s scales. For this test, ten previously damaged hair strands were selected for the study. These were natural hairs of Caucasian origin. The hairs were cleaned with Sodium
Figure 6: Visualization of skin surfaces without particles (top left), after application of PM2.5 particles alone (top right) or after application of PM2.5 particles and rinsing with water alone (bottom left) or with oligofurcellaran at 1.5% in water (bottom right).
PERSONAL CARE June 2024
Figure 7: Visualization of hair cuticles without treatment (left) or treated with oligofurcellaran containing solution at 1% (right)
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