HAIR CARE


Salon-inspired green cationic conditioning


Guglielmo Bifulco, Francesco Rastrelli, Gianbattista Rastrelli, Giorgio Tosti - Kalichem


The hair care industry undergoes constant evolution due to the changing requirements and demands imposed by today’s heterogeneous market segmentation. The elements underlying this segmentation are numerous, not least the increasingly strict selection of ingredients, especially related to the origin of the components. In this context, entirely vegetal, bio-


fermentation and marine sources appear to be those supported by greater approval by consumers, in particular for Generation Y and Z and very likely also for the upcoming consumers of ‘screenager’ generation. There is also the need to resort to the


use of highly biodegradable raw materials to reduce the environmental impact of finished products and maintain a high standard of eco- sustainability. The most frequently used ingredients in the industry are generally based on synthetic ammonium quaternary salts compounds (QACs), whose hyper-abundance has been detected in sediment and sludge samples due to its strong sorption and resistance to biodegradation under anoxic/anaerobic conditions. QACs are toxic to a lot of aquatic organisms including fish, daphnids, algae, rotifer and microorganisms employed in wastewater treatment systems. Furthermore, formulation actives are


required to be high performance and above all versatile to be used in diverse applications, in particular in relation to their transversal action on hair of different textures and ethnicities. This aspect plays a fundamental role in a


global social context in which social inclusion and multi-ethnicity represent increasingly permeated elements of today’s cultural paradigm. In close correlation with the previous


point, the most relevant challenge in hair care industry is to convert the functional added value of professional products (typically relying on the performances of cationic active ingredients predominantly of silicon and acrylic origin, like amodimethicone and polyquaterniums) in new product developments, with new proposals to consumers in which the starting raw materials have an entirely green, sustainable and biodegradable composition. In other words, the advancing trend is to try to match the performance of synthetic


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ingredients typically found in ‘salon-quality’ hair care products with ingredients fully compliant to the strict green and clean standards.


Bioactive peptides and postbiotics complex Kerashaft Alab (INCI name: Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Saccharomyces Polypeptides, Arginine, Lysine, Leucine, Aqua) – hereafter, the bioactive peptides - is an ingredient derived from selected plants and bio-fermentation, capable of brilliantly meeting all the requirements described above. The vegetable and postbiotic oligopeptides


used were selected on the basis of specific target values of hydrophobicity and content of natural alkaline components capable of the following. ■ Getting massively protonated in acidic environment and guaranteeing the cationic charge necessary for the accomplishment of anti-static, anti- frizz, cuticle sealing actions (hence, the feature to reflect the visible light and delivering a charming gloss effect). ■ Filming the hair shaft thanks to their high substantivity on cuticles (feature ideal for styling action). ■ Promoting hair cortex restructuring activity. The elements of absolute innovation


brought by the bioactive peptides can be traced back to the following aspects:


Challenging the functional standard


of ingredients with elite conditioning performances (amodimethicone, polyquaterniums etc.) through a 100% green composition, from exclusively vegetable and bio-fermented sources Application versatility on hair of all textures,


including Types 3 (curly) and 4 (coiled). In particular, the conditioning performances showed notable peaks on afro textures, including kinky and coily hair. The bioactive peptides specificity for such textures positions it in a market segment where valid existing alternatives are very few. Treatments targeted on textured hair


represent a major opportunity for plenty of cosmetics market stakeholders given the lack of structure of this applicative field and its huge potential of expansion and development. Optimized organoleptic characteristics.


In comparison with the majority of green conditioning ingredients on the market (from vegetable protein hydrolysates to cationic active ingredients based on components of hybrid vegetable and synthetic origin), the active ingredient is extremely pleasant in organoleptic terms due to its odourless and colourless nature and its stability over time. The principle behind this outcome is the


ability to generate scientifically sophisticated functional effects starting from selected, simple, clean and green starting materials.


June 2024 PERSONAL CARE


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