46 NATURALS
160 120 80 40 0
Water content of stratum corneum n=7, mean±S.D., *p<0.01
* Better AMIHOPE SB-101 Control PRODEW 700
Method: BB cream had been applied to cheeks every morning for four weeks
(TS formulation FBB-E)
Figure 11: Changes in skin capacitance on bare skin after continuous use of BB cream containing Prodew 700
cream to their right or left cheek and followed their daily routine. The skin condition after continuous use was
measured after waking up, pre-rinsing the bare skin with warm water at 35°C, acclimating it for 20 minutes under constant temperature and humidity conditions of 23°C and 40% RH, using a Corneometer CM825 (Courage + Khazaka). When applying a BB cream containing 2% amino acid complex (50% aqueous solution), it was confirmed that the skin capacitance of bare skin improved and TEWL decreased after four weeks of continuous use compared to a product that did not contain the amino acid complex (50% aqueous solution).
Lauroyl lysine based composite powder with high biodegradability In recent years, as sustainability and environmental initiatives have increased, there has been a growing movement in various countries to ban or reduce the use of polymeric plastics due to concerns about
■ Nylon-12 ■ PMMA
-30 -45 -60
-90 -75
B A -15
■ AMIHOPE SB-102 ■ Cellulose
■ AMIHOPE SB-101 ■ Cellulose Acetate 0
15 30 45 60 75 90
Goniophotometer GP-700, Light is incident at -45°. Murakami Color Research Lab Co., Ltd
References: J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Japan. Vo1.21, No.2 1987 Figure 13: Soft-focus effect of SB-101 and SB-102
PERSONAL CARE June 2024
their environmental impact. Countries in North America, Europe and Asia have already tightened regulations on rinse-off personal care products that use microplastic beads (MPB), and they are being replaced by alternative products. However, unlike rinse-off products, it is
technically difficult to develop MPB substitutes that maintain the texture and feeling during use in skin care and makeup cosmetics. Therefore, its use has not been regulated in Japan or other major countries. Lauroyl lysine, which is an amino acid-based organic powder, is known as a highly slippery powder having plate-like crystals and is used in many makeup cosmetics. By taking advantage of the characteristics of lauroyl lysine, we are developing MPB substitutes with excellent texture and functionality (Amihope SB series). Figure 12 shows a SEM image of the
developed lauroyl lysine composite powder. Silica-based SB-101 has an excellent SPF boost effect, starch-based SB-102 has excellent soft- focus properties (Figure 13), and both powders exhibit good biodegradability.
2.6 2.4 2.0 1.8 1.6 1.4 1.2 1.0
AMIHOPE SB-102 Figure 12: SEM observation of SB-101 and SB-102
Conclusion This article introduced some amino acids mixtures and amino acid derivatives. Amino acids and amino acid derivatives are mild and highly biodegradable raw materials for personal care products, and because they have unique functionality as cosmetic raw materials, more applications and expanded use are expected in the future. The widespread use of sustainable amino acids and amino acid derived raw materials in personal care products is expected to contribute to the development of a sustainable cosmetics industry with low environmental impact.
References 1. Spier HW, Pascher P. Der Hautarzt. 1956; 7, 55-60
2. Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan. Natural moisturizing factor.
https://www.sccj-
ifscc.com/library/glossary_detail/1126 3. Bio Industry. 22 (9), 31-37, 2005-09
Powder ingredients 100% Bad TS data: 10020560E
Control: BB cream without PRODEW700 PRODEW700: BB cream containing 2wt% PRODEWTM
700
PC
Good Nylon-12 PMMA
Amihope SB-101
Amihope SB-102
Cellulose
Cellulose Acetate
www.personalcaremagazine.com
% of the initial value after the test (%)
Psychological luster =length of A/ length of B
Wrinkle blurring effect (Soft-focus effect)
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