Volume 25 Issue 6
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CONTENTS
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Editor’s Comment
Cover Story: Lipoid Kosmetik News
76 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES
17 Interview: Eyes on the prize Michael Haspel is global vice president of
personal & home care at Clariant. Based in Charlotte, North Carolina in the US and originally from New Jersey, Michael talks to editor Tim Probert about Clariant’s personal care strategy, opportunities in China and other trends
21 Improving sensoriality of W/O
mineral sunscreen Kao Chemicals proposes the use of two specific ingredients: Exceparl LM-LC (Lauryl Lactate) as a solubilizer for UV filters with high solubility capacity and a low whitening effect, and Penetol GE-IS (Isostearyl Glyceryl Ether) as an emulsifier that forms liquid crystals in W/O emulsions with a higher internal phase content, affording a lighter and non-oily feel of the skin
27 Nourishing sensitive skin for
healthier appearance Lubrizol describes a novel active ingredient for sensitive skin with anti-ageing benefits that mimics the advantages of a healthy anti- inflammatory diet within the skin. This novel active ingredient, a biotechnological extract isolated from thermal springs in Italy and enriched with nourishing minerals, effectively reduces skin inflammation, even in cases where an unhealthy diet exacerbates the condition
33 Illuminating the path to radiant skin Chemyunion presents an in vitro study showing the action of a resurrection plant and green coffee active in reducing lipofuscin induced by ultraviolet radiation in human fibroblasts, acting as a detoxifying and protective agent. As a result of these differential mechanisms, the clinical study underscores the potential of the resurrection plant and green coffee active formulation in delivering remarkable skin brightening and pro-ageing effects
38 Sustained actives release using
silica aerogel Tokuyama Corporation of Japan has commercialized a spherical silica aerogel powder, Airlica, for cosmetics applications, which is characterized by its smooth texture derived from its spherical form produced by its proprietary technology
42 Sustainable, functional amino acid
ingredients Amino acids and amino acid derivatives are mild and highly biodegradable raw materials for personal care products, and because they have unique functionality as cosmetic raw materials, more applications and expanded use are expected in the future, as Ajinomoto explains
48 Investigating Heilmoor extract
rinse-off efficacy Premium Organic examines the scientific research surrounding the clinical efficacy of Heilmoor extract when used in rinse-off applications. It explores its detoxifying, anti-pollution, moisturising, soothing and anti-acne properties and highlights its potential as a holistic skincare solution
54 Red seaweed: secret treasure in the
Baltic Sea Codif Technologie Naturelle has developed Hydranov, a smart and effective moisturizer with hyaluronic acid effect for skin care, and Capiguard for hair care, fighting against pollution and protecting the hair cuticle. Est-Agar manufactures EstGel1000, which is a powdered furcellaran. As furcellaran molecules commonly exist in highly hydrated states, the substance has a high-water binding capacity, thus effectively reducing transepidermal water loss and providing moisturizing properties
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June 2024 PERSONAL CARE 59 Harnessing the power of
microbiome manipulation Active Concepts details the findings of an assay designed to assess the effect of active ingredients to alter dendritic cell paracrine signaling molecules to kill detrimental organisms found on the skin, and, therefore, promote commensal microbiota. The results are said to allow skin care researchers to unlock the secrets of the skin microbiome, paving the way for targeted interventions and personalized cosmetic solutions
63 Amino acid derivative for skin
microbiome balance Seiwa Kasei explains why its novel amino acid derivative Aminoflora contributes to a holistic approach in advancing overall skin wellbeing by comprehensively addressing skin, scalp, and hair health
69 Salon-inspired green cationic
conditioning Kalichem presents the findings of ex vivo studies said to prove the superior anti-frizz, resistance to combing, gloss and restructuring actions of its Kerashaft Alab active ingredient for hair care rinse off and leave on applications. It is based on an innovative biotech composition made of biodegradable vegetable derived oligopeptides and postbiotics
74 Celebrating the natural beauty
of textured hair Around 60-70% of the world’s population is estimated to have some form of texture in their hair, yet this segment is still not well understood or catered for. DSM-Firmenich has been working with a specialist textured hair consultant and end consumers to develop solutions that can address this texture gap
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