SUN CARE Exceparl LM-LC ■ C12-15 AlkylBenzoate ■


0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1 0.0


290


310 Wavelength (nm)


UV filter: BEMT + EHMC + TiO2 330 350 at 3:3:1 ration (14% total active)


Figure 3: Absorbance spectrum of Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT) + 2-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (EHMC) + Titanium Dioxide (TiO2


)


dissolved in C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (grey line) and in Lauryl Lactate (green line)


When water was gradually added to GE, a


highly viscous and transparent gel was formed, with a weight fraction of water (Ø) of 0.08 to 0.23. Polarized Light Microscopy observation (Figure 4) confirmed that the gel-like composition is a reverse hexagonal-type liquid crystal. When Ø exceeded 0.23, the water phase was separated from the liquid crystalline phase. No change in phase structure occurred with the further addition of water, i.e. the water and liquid crystalline phases coexisted. In liquid crystal emulsification, an oil phase


was dispersed directly into the liquid crystalline phase composed of GE and water to prepare a gel-like oil-in-liquid crystal emulsion. This was followed by dilution with the remaining water to produce an emulsion. Thus, it was concluded that the W/O emulsions stabilized with GE are in fact water-in-liquid crystal emulsions where the liquid crystal containing oil is a continuous phase.


Function Emulsifier


Emollient Emollient


Solubilizer UV filters Humectant Stabilizer


Preservative Water


W/O emulsions with high water Ingredients


Isosteraryl Glyceryl Ether PPG-3 Caprylyl Ether Tricaprylin


Lauryl Lactate


BEMT+EHMC+TiO2 Glycerine


Magnesium Sulphate


Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin


Deionized water Oil (Liquid paraffin)


23


GE: Water: oil = 70:15:15


Isostearyl Glyceryl Ether (GE)


GE: Water: oil = 5:90:5 Water


Liquid crystals:


✔ Clear gel appearance ✔ Birefringence


GE: Water: oil = 85:15:0 Figure 4: Ternary phase diagram of the GE/water/liquid paraffin system at 25°C


% wt 2.4%


2.0% 5.0% 2.5%


14.0% 3.0% 1.0%


Standard W/O emulsions Ingredients


Sorbitan Oleate or Glyceryl Oleate PPG-3 Caprylyl Ether Tricaprylin


C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate BEMT+EHMC+TiO2 Glycerine


Magnesium Sulphate


% wt 6.4%


2.0% 5.0% 8.0%


14.0% 3.0% 1.0%


0.5% Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin 0.5% 70% Deionized water 60%


Table 1: Compositions test: W/O emulsion with high water content stabilized with GE and Lauryl Lactate as solubilizer for UV filters, and standard W/O emulsions stabilized with Sorbitan Oleate or Glyceryl Oleate and C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate as solubilizer for UV filters


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