70 HAIR CARE Styling functionality: The bioactive peptides’
suitability in styling products gets particularly relevant in the wake of the increased demand of styling products dedicated to curly and afro textures, but also for new trends emerging for consumers like the return of ‘retro’ hair styles and perms, along with the need of using products whose continuative application does not lead to build up.
Social impact: inclusivity matters One of the hottest topics in cosmetics industry is certainly represented by the immense development potential linked to hair care products for Types 3 and 4. The Hair Typing System adopted by stylist Andre Walker and taken up online by several sources (e.g. The Pattern Beauty website by Tracee Ellis Ross), has allowed consumers to learn more about the nature of their hair, in order to direct them towards conscious purchasing choices. The topic in question takes on considerable
significance since recent market and consumer studies indicate that in mature and prosperous markets like the USA and France, the estimated quantity of women with natural curly hair goes beyond 50% of the population (in particular, 68% in the USA and 53% in France). Based on the potential consumer base,
the hair care market for hair with Types 3/4 remains one of the frontiers of greatest interest from a development perspective. The US market for afro hair care recorded estimated global values of $1.8 billion, nevertheless consumers with coily and kinky hair remain under-represented by mainstream brands and retailers.
The change of trend is in progress and
several multinationals have launched inclusive campaigns that aim to change the negative narrative around coily/textured hair, while highlighting the need of specialized and specific haircare products. Furthermore, haircare brands for coily and
textured hair can expand into the overlooked baby care segment to create an empowering narrative around the hair type from a young age.
4
3.5 3
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
Placebo Kerashaft Alab
Figure 1: Combing test: average combability The need for specific products for Types 3/4
derives from the physiological characteristics of this hair type and the problems associated with its care; afro hair uneven texture lacks moisture and is highly prone to loss of definition, dryness, dehydration and frizz, especially in humid conditions: market data indicate that the frizz issue is claimed by subjects with afro hair with double percentage levels compared to their Caucasian counterparts. In response to these issues, consumers
are frequently forced to the use of low- poo shampoos and conditioners aimed at reducing frizz, add definition and keeping the style as long as possible, although the availability and specificity of action of suitable market products is extremely limited and unsatisfactory.
Functional evaluation The bioactive peptides have been the object of several in vivo and ex vivo studies carried out on heterogenous hair types. Further publications regarding the behaviour of the bioactive peptides with additional data on
Combing & Frizz evaluations Synthetic Quat
curly and afro hair will be released later this year.
The following evaluation is centred on
the performance on Caucasian hair of several functional parameters, including resistance to combing force, luminosity, frizz control and restructuring actions.
Materials and methods The ex vivo studies were carried out on Caucasian hair locks with standard length (11 ± 0.5 cm) and weight (± .05 g); measurements were made in a closed room, with controlled temperature and humidity (20 ± 2 ° C, 50 ± 5 % RH), after a conditioning time of about 48 hours.
The largest source of variability associated
with virtually all instrumental testing of hair products relates to the treatment procedure, where variation in how a product is used can outweigh formulation differences. To avoid that, the highly dependent factors such as dosage, residence time on the hair, and thoroughness of rinsing were standardized to generate quality data. The products analyzed were solutions
+130% vs placebo
+33.7% vs placebo
Placebo Figure 2: Combing and frizz evaluations PERSONAL CARE June 2024
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Synthetic Quat
Kerashaft Alab
Force (N)
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