HAIR CARE Placebo ■ Moringa ■
35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0
3 32.08
**** ****
2.5 2
1.5 1
6.28 5 Applications
Figure 5: Percent change in work done after 25% strain on hair fibres after five applications of placebo and hydrolyzed protein active treatment versus initial
water in hair and the other between 230°C to 280°C region, related to phase transition of the crystalline phase α-keratin. Alpha keratin is a type of fibrous protein
forming the main structural component of hair fibres. It contains polypeptide chains, which are twisted together to form a helix structure, also known as a coiled coil structure.1
It is
rich in the amino acid, cysteine, resulting in abundant disulphide bridges. This property gives α-keratin its elasticity and resilience. Amorphous keratin, specifically beta-keratin,
has different structural make-up to α-keratin. It is often linked with providing a tougher and more rigid structure, due to its pleated sheet configuration. This offers a stronger layer of protection against heat and external aggressors.
Results The results of thermal protection provided by the hydrolyzed moringa protein show that ΔHd values were significantly higher compared to placebo groups with a statistical significance of ****p<0.0001. Moringa treated hair fibres showed 33% and 66% higher potential of protection of α-keratin and amorphous phase of keratin, respectively, when compared to placebo groups.
Hair fibre surface imaging Understanding the structural alterations of individual hair fibres is crucial for developing effective treatments. In this study, scanning
UNTREATED
0.5 0
Alpha Keratin Amorphous Keratin
Figure 6: Thermal protection of alpha keratin and amorphous keratin delivered by placebo versus hydrolyzed protein active treatment
electron microscopy (SEM) was employed to examine the morphology of one-time bleached Caucasian hair samples. The images captured in three dimensions provided insights into the fibre’s condition. This investigation aimed to compare the baseline damaged state with lifted cuticles, to the effects after five applications of a placebo protein-free shampoo, and finally, to the outcomes following five applications of a hydrolyzed moringa protein-enriched shampoo treatment. SEM imagery results are shown in Figure 7.
Results
The SEM images revealed distinctive structural changes in the hair fibres under different treatment conditions. At the baseline, one-time bleached hair exhibited severe damage, characterized by lifted cuticles and an overall compromised appearance. After five applications of the placebo protein-free shampoo, there was minimal improvement observed. The structural integrity of the hair fibres remained largely unchanged. Conversely, after five applications of the
hydrolyzed moringa protein-enriched shampoo treatment, a notable transformation was evident. The cuticle layer appeared even, and the overall appearance of the hair indicated signs of substantial recovery, indicating the effectiveness of the protein-based treatment in restoring hair health.
5 APPLICATION PLACEBO 5 APPLICATION MORINGA Conclusion
Based on the instrumental analysis of hydrolyzed moringa protein with an average molecular weight of 1369 Da, this technology provides multiple benefits to hair fibres. This comprehensive study analysis demonstrates that hydrolyzed moringa penetrates to cortex, repairing bonds, including S-S bond (cystine repair), reinforces bonds for more resilient hair, and visibly improves appearance of hair fibres. This active technology maintains the integrity
of the alpha keratin structure that provides elasticity and resilience to create a stronger layer of protection against heat and external damage. Hydrolyzed moringa protein treatment can help protect and repair and can be utilized in any hair care formulation for powerful results.
Acknowledgements KosmoScience Brazil
PC
References 1. Robbins CR. Chemical composition of different hair types. In: Robbins, C.R., Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, 5th edn. 2012. Berlin & Heidelberg, Germany. Springer- Verlag pp 105-176
2. Robbins CR. The cell membrane complex: Three related but different cellular cohesion components of mammalian hair fibres. J Cosmet Sci. (2009; 60(4) 437-465
3. Gummer CL. Elucidating penetration pathways into the hair fibre using novel microscopic techniques. J Cosmet Sci. 2001; 52(5) 265-280
4. Popescu C. Hair damage. In: Evans, T. and Wickett, R.R., eds, Practical Modern Hair Science. 2012. Carol Stream, IL USA. Allured Business Media pp 367-388
5. Fraser RDB, Parry DAD. Structural hierarchy of trichocyte keratin intermediate filaments. In: Plowman JE, Harland DP, Deb-Choudhury S, eds., The Hair Fibre: Proteins, Structure and Development. 2018. Berlin & Heidelberg, Germany. Springer-Verlag pp 57-70 and pp 71-86
6. How Bond Builders “Repair” Hair by Paul Cornwell Ph.D TRI Princeton, Princeton, NJ. and Jennifer Marsh, Ph.D., Procter & Gamble, Mason, OH. Cosmetics & Toiletries. 27 February 2023
Figure 7: SEM images of hair fibres after five applications of placebo hydrolyzed protein treatment compared to initial
www.personalcaremagazine.com
7. Swift JA. The structure and Chemistry of Human Hair. Evans T, Wickett RR, eds., Practical Modern Hair Science. 2012. Carol Stream, IL USA. Allured Business Media pp 1-39
January 2024 PERSONAL CARE 2.15
2.68 ****
**** 1.58 protection
33% more thermal
protection
66% more thermal
Placebo ■ Moringa ■
**** 2.61
73
% changes from Initial
ΔH(J.g-1)
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80
